Header
USA
Israel                  
   
  Choose Your Love, then Love Your Choice  
                                       Blog RSS


Poultry


Avocado


Banana


Flowers


Fruit Trees


Mangos


Palms


Shrubs


Vines


Nipa Hut Gardens and Gifts Blog: 




  • admin @ 22:47 
  • (2)
  •    

Grow Native Or Else! Or Else What?

Often I have heard this statement.  Everyone wants native only plants, now, there is nothing wrong with native plants, in fact I own many, however this puts us in the passive mode that we are restricted to what we can grow.  I don’t know about you, but I love exotics.




I love when people ask for a plant that the general person does not know it even exists.



I love the salacious taste of the fruit in my mouth.



I love the different leaves and shapes and sizes of these different plants.




I guess I am kind of a plant rebel.  If you tell me I can’t grow it I will find a way.  We have plants from all over the world and my collection keeps growing.  I love plants that are exotic in nature.




Case and point.  Salvia Divinorum, this is a plant from Mexico and South America.  Teens now are growing these plants and smoking the dried leaves to get high, the US Gov is trying to outlaw the plant.  Do you realize that this is a very beautiful plant?  It grows well indoors and has a great look and smell, now I do not agree with the people abusing the plant, but the plant itself is very exotic.  I will continue to grow this plant, even if they ban it, I do not smoke it, I do not sell it to teens to smoke, I grow it because it’s a beautiful exotic plant.




This spring, we will be planting for our yard and for landscaping purposes, but how about for you?




Let’s look at some of the benefits of exotics.




1. Rare in nature, these plants are not found in many places in the world.



2. They are kept in pots and brought in during the cold weather and in the spring and summer can go outdoors.



3. You become the envy of the neighborhood



4. You become an expert in the eyes of everyone (No one else knows about these plants but you).



5. You get extremely healthy fruit that is free from pesticides, herbicides and chemicals.



6. You get the joy of harvesting a crop that YOU have grown yourself.




Many plants grow in pots and do very well.  Here in Tampa we don’t suffer from cold or snow, but I have lived up north many years with the same snow and ice that many of you face. 




Put yourself in a daydream right now; picture a nice cozy fire, the wind howling outside.  The thermometer outside the window showing negative 5 below zero, you see the driveway needs shoveled, as you glance out the window, but you know the cold and wind is something you don’t want to fight.  What to do, a real conundrum right?




Wrong, you sit down next to that roaring fire, you reach over to your Brazilian Grumichama Cherry tree and pick off a succulent ripe fruit that beckons you every day, you munch out on healthy edible fruit that you have grown yourself and realize that no one else within hundreds of miles has this plant or even knows what it is.  That is what makes it well worth the time and effort.




Now I am not trying to sell you my plants, I am just trying to get you to think “outside” the box, obviously you love plants or you would not be on our mailing list, you are one of the “elite”, the type of person that is not tied down to the whole “Native Only” routine that is being spouted now.  Let me first say for many people “Native Only” is a good idea, only because they lack the ability to care for non native plants or lack the knowledge.  If you put an invasive species into an area that it will thrive that is not a good thing, but I am talking about responsible exotics, someone that not only cares about the environment but wants that something special that no one else owns.




So when you are buying your spring plants, think exotic and be different, be special and be loved.




Peter




Side Note:



Our business will be in a major garden magazine in April “In The Field”, they have done a featured article on us.

  • admin @ 08:04 
  • (1)
  •    

What are plants? Horticulture Course Starting

What are plants?


 Wikipedia defines this as:

 “Plants are a major group of life forms and include familiar organisms such as trees, herbs, bushes, grasses, vines, ferns, mosses, and green algae. About 350,000 species of plants, defined as seed plants, bryophytes, ferns and fern allies, are estimated to exist currently. As of 2004, some 287,655 species had been identified, of which 258,650 are flowering and 15,000 bryophytes.”

 It would seem that plants are very complex living things that range from microscopic to huge living organisms.

 Some plants are so old they were probably alive in the time of Christ, and others only last 24 hours.

Those plants we work with in the horticulture business are called “higher plants” this is due to their complex elaborate physical structure.

“Lower plants” are just as important due to the affects they have on the “higher plants” with their impact to the landscape and nursery materials.

The typical lifecycle for plants start with a living seed in the right environment conditions that cause it to split and create new cells.  Soon a root will emerge and grow downwards.  Soon after a shoot will grow upwards.  After a certain length of time the shoot will begin to form leaves, flowers and then seeds.  After it has seeded (Days, Months, or Years) it dies and the cycle starts all over again.

To learn about growing plants we must learn how plants are made up and how they grow and carry nutrients.  Once we learn these basics it makes it much easier to grow and understand the needs of our plants.

Next we will discus Plant cells.  Sign up for our New Horticulture Course here www.nipahutgardens.com/horticulturecourse.asp















  • admin @ 07:00 
  • (1)
  •    

Getting Your Plants Ready for Winter.

Cold damage can injure plants through sun injury, dieback, root , and frost heaving. You can help prevent such damage from occurring, with some simple maintenance before the winter truly begins.

Sun injury is caused by the bark heating up on cold winter days, then chilling rapidly when the sun goes down or is blocked such as from trees and clouds. It seems the tissue in the bark near the surface starts to warm up and become active.


When the temperature drops it kills this tissue. The result is sun injury, or sunken, elongated, darkened areas of the bark. Usually this occurs on the south sides of trees where the sun has warmed the bark.


This is most common on young trees with thin bark. Older trees, with thicker bark, are less sensitive to such temperature extremes. Other plants that have been pruned to expose previously shaded bark also can be injured this way. There are certain species with thin bark are more prone to sun injury, including cherry, crabapple, honey locust, linden, maple, and mountain ash.


To prevent sun injury, wrap the bark of vulnerable trees in late fall with either some tree wrap tape, plastic tree guards, or similar light colored material. These can be found in most garden stores.


Remove the wrap in the spring after the last frost, to avoid insects living under the material during the summer.


Wrap newly planted trees or young trees for at a minimum two winters. Wrap thin-bark trees for a minimum five winters.


Cold also can injure evergreens through discoloration, predominantly in late winter. It appears as browned leaf tips, large areas, or browning of needles of conifers. Such browning is often referred to as “desiccation”, also known as drying out of leaves.


Sunny days in winter, or wind, can cause evergreen leaves to lose water or “transpire”. Since the ground is frozen, roots can not get water, so the result is the leaves drying out and browning.


Similar to sun injury on bark, warm days can motivate cells to be active in leaves, only to be killed by sudden temperature drops when the sun disappears.


This mainly occurs in fall before plants are fully hardened, or in spring as new growth is occurring, with a sudden low temperature resulting in injury to  non-hardened tissues.


One obvious solution is to make sure these plants go into the winter well-watered. If there is less than an inch or two of rain a week in mid fall, make sure you water such plants. Another solution is to wrap these plants in burlap (not plastic that can heat up and cook the plants). 


Snow is one of the best protectors, so low lying plants can be protected by making sure they are covered with snow. You can lightly shovel snow on them, or place holiday boughs and trees next to them to trap the snow.


If you have plants that usually get damage, consider moving them if possible next season, or planting new ones in sites more protected from winter sun and wind.


Sprays to protect the foliage from drying out, called “anti desiccants” have been recommended in the past. Most studies seem to show they are not very effective.


Dieback is simply plant parts, such as twigs and buds, being killed by cold weather. This is often seen on deciduous shrubs, or those that lose their leaves.


Not much can be done to protect such plants, except to select more hardy varieties. Make sure next season in late summer you don’t over water, prune, or fertilize. All of these may stimulate dynamic growth which will not have time to harden properly.


If a tree or shrub is injured from dieback, don’t be too eager to prune off the apparent dead branches. Often these only may be dead on the surface, with living tissue underneath which will produce buds. 


You can carefully scratch the surface of the bark to expose the cambium layer underneath, it this is still green the branch is not dead. So wait until mid-spring to prune such branches, especially on less hardy roses which often show at least some dieback.


Roots can be injured by cold soil temperatures, generally at about 10 degrees (F) or lower. The good news is that due to the underlying heat in the soil, snow, and other factors, root and soil temperatures seldom get this low. Dry soils tend to get colder than moist soil, so fall watering will help to prevent this issue.


Making sure any cracks in the soil around newly planted trees or shrubs are filled before the first freeze. Covering the root zone with up to six inches of mulch, such as bark or pine needles, will keep roots warm much longer in the fall, as well as help retain the moisture for the soil.


Mulched soils also fluctuate less in temperatures during winter, which is better for root hardiness. Make sure to keep the mulch away from trunk and stems, or else mice may live in this material and feed on the bark.


A final way cold may damage trees and shrubs is through repeated freezing and thawing of soil in spring, called “frost heaving.” Such expanding and contraction of soil around roots can damage them, and raise new plantings or “heave” them from the soil.


Mulching, as well as planting early in the season so plants can be well-rooted by fall, minimizes frost heaving.

  • admin @ 08:25 
  • (0)
  •    

Growing Rambutan in Non-Tropical Regions

Rambutan trees fruit twice a year, yielding crops beginning late June and August and in December and January. Growing seasons vary, however, in each of the tropical countries where it flourishes. Truly tropical, Rambutan trees love warm humid climates.  The also make great potted plants for indoors for those who live in non-tropical areas.



Demands from Asian immigrant fans have increased the import of this rather rare fruit into Europe, the Middle East and North America. Traditional suppliers include Malaysia, Thailand and Indonesia but today Honduras and Australia are entering the raging Rambutan market. An anticipated worldwide demand is the result of improved handling of postharvest fruits, increased production and faster long-distance transporting of this delicate fruit. Thailand exports the most canned Rambutan while Malaysia is the largest exporter of fresh Rambutan.



One of the most exotic looking fruits and closely related to the lychee, very tropical Rambutan, pronounced ram-BYU-tn, varies in type and quality. This striking fruit may be greenish yellow, orange or crimson. Oval or globe-shaped, they are usually one to two inches long with a section of the stem attached. Easy to remove, the soft flexible hairy bristles are about one-half inch long. Long hairs on its leathery exterior make it seem bigger than the litchi but the inner part of the fruit is actually smaller. Prized for its exceptional juicy-sweet texture, Rambutan flavor is really quite subtle. Having a slight resemblance to a sweet chestnut, this unusual fruit gets its name, no surprise, from the Malaysian word for hair, "rambut". Seriously aromatic, the flavor is more acidic than the litchi. The large seed has an almond-like taste.



A source of vitamin C and calcium, Rambutan provides niacin, iron, protein and fiber. An average fruit contains 59 calories. Eating five daily servings of fruits and vegetables lowers the chances of cancer. A recent study found eating nine or ten daily servings of fruits and vegetables, combined with three servings of low-fat dairy products, were effective in lowering blood pressure.



Rambutan is excellent added to a mouthwatering tropical fruit salad. Combine with papaya, mango, pineapple, kumquats, and banana, to name a few. Blend with a brandy-orange juice-lemon juice dressing; chill. Spoon the luscious fruit salad into festive coconut shells or scooped-out pineapples for an impressive decorative eye-catching dessert. Top with whipped cream and a stemmed-cherry. Perfect for canning, rambutan retains its natural good looks and sturdy character. To prepare, cut or tear base of fruit; press out the translucent pulpy flesh. To store, fragile rambutan keeps only a day or two at room temperature. For longer storage, wrap in a perforated plastic bag; refrigerate.



Rambutan is also known as litchi chevelu in France and is called "gente" in Malaysia. Thailand fondly calls this fruit "ngob" (paa) and the Chinese refer to it as "bong mao dan".



Native to the western lowlands of Malaysia, rambutan is now cultivated in Zanzibar where early Arab traders introduced it, in Sri Lanka and in many areas of Southeast Asia. Rambutan is most commonly grown in Indonesia, Thailand and Malaysia. The fruit is grown for export in Australia, Sri Lanka, Central America and Vietnam. Other tropical countries grow it for their own domestic consumption. In 1993, only thirty farmers on a combined sixty acres grew the rambutan fruit in Hawaii. Cultivation of rambutan is considered too fragile for the United States. Two types of rambutan include the standard variety and a specially developed green-haired rongrian ancestry that produces a thinner skin and an even more delicate flavor.



Potting



There are many different types of pots available and each has its benefits and drawbacks.  There is plastic with can heat up or freeze quickly, Metal, same as plastic,  Clay and wood dry quicker, ceramic that can be heavy and many others that you can buy at local garden centers.  For the most part all can be used quite successfully with tropical plants.  Choose one based on your own preferences.



These pots should have holes in the bottom for adequate drainage.  When you buy your pot, and before you put in soil, cover these holes with a mesh of some sort to help retain the soil, it is also good to put down an inch or two of gravel to insure good drainage.  With tropical plants drainage is essential to healthy plants. 



Potting soil from the local garden center will suffice if mixed with 1 part sand; however a much better solution would be 1 part Perlite or Vermiculite, 1 part course sand, and 1 part Peat.  This gives good drainage as well as sufficient nutrients.  Make sure your soil is not packed down heavy to allow good drainage but not excessive drainage.



Remove your plant from its original container; look carefully at the root system.  It they are heavily packed in and there is more root then dirt, we want to prune these roots before we plant.  Take some of these roots and loosen them up and then carefully clip the ends to stimulate the plant to root more in its new container.  If pruning is not needed, then just loosen the root ball before planting.



Place the plant in the new container making sure you have filled it half way with the new planting material.  You want to make sure that when you fill the rest of the container with soil, the soil line is the same as the original plant when you pulled it out.  The soil like should be about 1-4 inches below the rim of the pot when you are all finished.



Important key:  Make sure your fully grown plant will be proportional to your pot.  Don’t put an 8 foot tall tree in a 10 inch pot.  Allow the roots to be able to grow, the larger the pot the more fruit it will bear.

   

Light



Rambutan usually require lots of sunlight, anywhere you can place them to receive full sunlight is beneficial to them. 

   

When you receive them they are most likely used to full sunlight, when you are going to bring them indoors, or for winter times, when bringing them indoors, you must acclimate them to your indoor area.  Make sure to put them near a good light source and if possible add additional light



Water



Rambutan are used to lots of water, however they are also used to well drained soil, so their water requirements are different for potted plants.  These dependencies are based on size of the pot, size of the plant, type of plant, temperature where you keep the plant, the humidity and the type of soil you have.  You are usually safe to water, when the upper surface of the soil is dry before you water your plant.  Slowly fill the container watching for runoff at the bottom holes.  Remember that wood or clay pots dry faster, making watering more frequent and cooler weather slows down the growth of the plant, thus reducing the need to water as much.



Temperature



This is probably the key ingredient to successful tropical plant keeping.  NO FREEZING WEATHER.  Rambutan cannot take cold temperatures below 50 F., so you will need to find a way to bring these indoors.  Cold temperatures will lead to root damage, and leave damage.  If you bring them indoors make sure you keep them away from drafts from doors or windows to freeze, and out of the heating vent areas so not to dry out too fast.

   

Fertilizer



Too much fertilizer is very bad for Rambutan.  A good Mango fertilizer will do fine. Read the directions completely.  After spending good money on a beautiful tropical plant, you would hate to kill it by over fertilizing it.  Usually with a tropical plant the mature foliage will show deep green indicating that you are fertilizing on the correct scale.  Make sure your fertilizer has a complete balanced diet of Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium, and Lesser amounts of Magnesium, Iron, Manganese, Zinc, Copper, again Read the label.



Pruning

   

With most container Rambutan plants little or no pruning is needed.  However if the plant becomes “leggy” due to poor light conditions then cut it back greatly to force it to bush out.  If the top becomes too large for the root structure, again a large pruning spree is needed.  Also when you start to get leaf shed and twigs die back this is an indication that the root structure is not large enough for the top foliage and pruning is needed.

   

Fruitfulness



Will I get fruit?  This is the question we all ask.  Is it worth the time and effort?  Ask anyone that has a fruit tree planted in a pot, as they pick tropical fruit on a blizzard day of 10 below zero, and they will always tell you “Yes!”  For the most part container tropic plants are dependant on the light source and size of the pot to how much fruit they will have.  Most fruit trees will fruit in pots as long as we keep all of the requirements alive in our head.  The larger the tree the larger the pot that is needed.  Fruit will bear proportional to the size of the pot and plant.  Please keep in mind that some fruit will need a presence of another cultivator to be able to fruit.  Again check the specifics of your plant before you decide to buy it.



Copyright Dr. Peter T. Dixon D.B.S.



Have you ever wanted a Tropical Paradise but live in an area that will not grow these rare and wonderful plants?  Now you can grow these in any area of the world with this information.  Its easier then you think.
  • admin @ 06:57 
  • (0)
  •    

Fall Planting and Care

Fall is finally here and the weather for most of you will be turning cold, here are some fall tips for you:


    * Start planning your spring bulb garden now. Spring-blooming bulbs are planted in the fall to provide the chilling time required for spring blooms. Note the areas where you want to add bulbs for next year. Have your shopping list ready when the selection hits the garden centers. Remember to prepare your soil before planting bulbs. Work compost or other rich organic material into your soil to a depth of 12".


    * Dig up tender bulbs like elephant's ear, caladium, gladiolus, canna and dahlia before the first frost. When the foliage has turned yellow or brown on your bulbs, dig them up and store them for the winter. Replant bulbs in the spring after the danger of frost has passed. If you're storing summer bulbs such as dahlias and gladiolus, give them a quick check to see if any are rotting. If so, remove and discard.       Also check for excessive dryness. Squeeze a bulb to test for health. A good bulb will feel firm, not hollow or mushy. Don't squeeze too hard or you'll bruise the outer skin. In milder climates, leave tender bulbs in the ground. Protect them with a blanket of mulch several inches thick through the winter.


    * Water Conservation Tips. Remember that roses require special care in the fall. In early fall, suspend fertilization. Continuing to fertilize causes new growth that could be killed by winter's cold. After foliage drops, spray with fungicide, then cover plants with a minimum of 8" of loose, well-drained soil, mulch or compost. Prune canes back to 36" to prevent damage from winter winds.


    * Start planning your fall garden now. Annuals like chrysanthemums, impatiens, ornamental cabbage, and pansies are old favorites. Try adding a late vegetable crop of spinach or turnips to enjoy before winter sets in. Start them by seed in trays if your garden space is still occupied with fruit-producing plants.


    * Late summer's heat can stress your plants, especially those in containers. Check flower pots, window boxes and especially hanging baskets regularly for dryness. Also check the mulch in the flowerbed to see if it's enough for the remainder of the growing season.


    * Divide perennials. To keep plants from drying out, do the work on cool, cloudy day. Make sure each section you divide has at least one bud and some roots. Plant the divided perennials immediately. Not all perennials appreciate fall division, some prefer spring. Make sure your variety is suitable for fall division before digging.


    * Stop deadheading at the end of the season if you want your flowers to create seeds. Once the flowers are dead, cut them and allow them to dry. Remove the seeds by crumbling the dried flower head into a container. Separate the seeds from the debris and put them in a labeled envelope for next spring. Another option — let them fall to the ground and re-seed naturally.


  • admin @ 05:14 
  • (0)
  •    

Cold Outside? Create the Tropics indoors.

The old song sings “Let it snow, let it snow, let it snow”  Those in the north can enjoy this sparkle of wonder brought down from the heavens, but those in the south can only dream about it.  But with all things said, most areas at least have to deal with the cold.

Avid gardeners do not like this time of the year, it brings death to our plants and dormancy to those that do survive the cold.  How can we strive to keep this part of our lives intact without suffering the plants?


How can we sit down by our fireplace, toasting our feet with the heat radiating from the hearth, sipping a hot cup of tea, dreaming of Tahiti, and not feel the longing for tropical plants.  Well, I have a solution for you.


Your own Tropical Paradise.  We often see commercials of Tropical Vacations and dream of better days sitting under the sun with a drink in our hands.  What is it about the tropics we so enduring?  What lures us to these places?  In colder climates during the winter months plants have acclimated to the climate.  They can take freezing temperatures and months of snow and ice.  However tropical plants are not capable of surviving these climates.  But we still long for that Tropical fruit we buy in the store for outrageous prices.  What if we could go over to a tropical tree, select a ripe fruit and eat it right then and there, while outside a blizzard is taking place?  Our own tropical paradise, right inside out own home.  Many tropical plants will grow with the right care and conditions in areas that normally would not permit them.  These same plants that grow in abundance in Asia, South America, Africa, can grow right in your own living room, ready to pluck the ripe, sweet fruit grown specifically by you.


Potting


There are many different types of pots available and each has its benefits and drawbacks.  There is plastic with can heat up or freeze quickly, Metal, same as plastic,


Clay and wood dry quicker, ceramic that can be heavy and many others that you can buy at local garden centers.  For the most part all can be used quite successfully with tropical plants.  Choose one based on your own preferences.


These pots should have holes in the bottom for adequate drainage.  When you buy your pot, and before you put in soil, cover these holes with a mesh of some sort to help retain the soil, it is also good to put down an inch or two of gravel to insure good drainage.  With tropical plants drainage is essential to healthy plants. 


Potting soil from the local garden center will suffice; however a much better solution would be 1 part Perlite or Vermiculite, 1 part course sand, and 1 part Peat.  This gives good drainage as well as sufficient nutrients.  Make sure your soil is not packed down heavy to allow good drainage but not excessive drainage.


Remove your plant from its original container; look carefully at the root system.  It they are heavily packed in and there is more root then dirt, we want to prune these roots before we plant.  Take some of these roots and loosen them up and then carefully clip the ends to stimulate the plant to root more in its new container.  If pruning is not needed, then just loosen the root ball before planting.


Place the plant in the new container making sure you have filled it halve way with the new planting material.  You want to make sure that when you fill the rest of the container with soil, the soil line is the same as the original plant when you pulled it out.  The soil like should be about 1-4 inches below the rim of the pot when you are all finished.


Important key:  Make sure your fully grown plant will be proportional to your pot.  Don’t put an 8 foot tall tree in a 10 inch pot.  Allow the roots to be able to grow, the larger the pot the more fruit it will bear.


Light


Tropical plants usually require lots of sunlight, anywhere you can place them to receive full sunlight is beneficial to them.  Search on the internet for your species to find out their light requirements.  Some tropicals do well in partial shade however most need to receive the maximum sunlight available.


Tropical plants, when you receive them are most likely used to full sunlight, when you are going to bring them indoors, or for winter times, when bringing them indoors, you must acclimate them to your indoor area.  Make sure to put them near a good light source and if possible add additional light


Water


Tropical plants are used to lots of water, however they are also used to well drained soil, so their water requirements are different for potted plants.  These dependencies are based on size of the pot, size of the plant, type of plant, temperature where you keep the plant, the humidity and the type of soil you have.  You are usually safe to water, when the upper surface of the soil is dry before you water your plant.  Slowly fill the container watching for runoff at the bottom holes.  Remember that wood or clay pots dry faster, making watering more frequent and cooler weather slows down the growth of the plant, thus reducing the need to water as much.


Temperature


This is probably the key ingredient to successful tropical plant keeping.  NO FREEZING WEATHER.  Tropical plants cannot take cold temperatures, so you will need to find a way to bring these indoors.  Cold temperatures will lead to root damage, and leave damage.  Again it depends on the species of tropical plant you have to the extent it can take cold weather.  Some plants you can just cover overnight and then remove each morning, others will need to be brought indoors.  If you bring them indoors make sure you keep them away from drafts from doors or windows to freeze, and out of the heating vent areas so not to dry out too fast.


Fertilizer


Too much fertilizer is very bad for tropical plants.  The best type of fertilizer to use are water soluble types, any local garden center can help you pick out a good fertilizer that will meet the plants requirements.  Read the directions completely.  After spending good money on a beautiful tropical plant, you would hate to kill it by over fertilizing it.  Usually with a tropical plant the mature foliage will show deep green indicating that you are fertilizing on the correct scale.  Make sure your fertilizer has a complete balanced diet of Nitrogen,      Phosphorus, Potassium, and Lesser amounts of Magnesium, Iron, Manganese, Zinc, Copper, again Read the label.


Pruning


With most container tropical plants little or no pruning is needed.  However if the plant becomes “leggy” due to poor light conditions then cut it back greatly to force it to bush out.  If the top becomes too large for the root structure, again a large pruning spree is needed.  Also when you start to get leaf shed and twig die back this is an indication that the root structure is not large enough for the top foliage and pruning is needed.

    


Fruitfulness


Will I get fruit?  This is the question we all ask.  Is it worth the time and effort?  Ask anyone that has a fruit tree planted in a pot, as they pick tropical fruit on a blizzard day of 10 below zero, and they will always tell you “Yes!”  For the most part container tropic plants are dependant on the light source and size of the pot to how much fruit they will have.  Most fruit trees will fruit in pots as long as we keep all of the requirements alive in our head.  The larger the tree, the larger the pot that is needed.  Fruit will bear proportional to the size of the pot and plant.  Please keep in mind that some fruit will need a presence of another cultivator to be able to fruit.  Again check the specifics of your plant before you decide to buy it.


  • admin @ 10:05 
  • (0)
  •    

Purple Mexican Petunia

The Mexican petunia is a tender evergreen perennial that forms colonies of stemmy stalks standing 3 ft in height and of indeterminate width. The strong semi-woody stalks are distinctly vertical in aspect and hold attractive dark green, leaves oppositely at the nodes. The lance-shaped leaves are to 6-12 in in length and 1/2-3/4 in wide. When grown under hot sunny conditions the foliage assumes a metallic bluish cast that creates the perfect backdrop for the the scores of vibrant blue flowers that appear with the onslaught of hot summer weather. The blossoms are trumpet shaped and about 1.5-2 in diameter and are borne at the tips of the stems. Varieties with white, pink, and many shades of blue are available, as are dwarf versions that form clumps that are about 8-12 in. in height. Mexican petunia is very showy when in full bloom due to the clouds of admiring butterflies that swarm about the plants. Mexican Petunia


Mexican petunia is native to Mexico, but it has escaped cultivation and established in disturbed areas in the SE U.S., and can be found in habitats across Florida and in Northern States as annuals.


Prefers fertile soil with moisture, but is very adaptable to almost any climate. After flowering, cut back stems about halfway for a new crop! Mexican petunia can be grown indoors as a houseplant in bright light. It is typically free of pests and disease.


It prefers Sun to part shade. The quantity of blossoms is related to the amount of light the plant receives. The more direct sunlight the more flowers with fewer flowers appearing in overcast conditions or when grown in shadier conditions.


Average to moist moisture should be used. Mexican petunia is a water plant that becomes very aggressive with access to abundant moisture. Survives dry spells once established. When growing Mexican petunia indoors water freely when in active growth but water only when dry in winter.


Propagates by Cuttings, division, seed. mexican petuniaStems are very easy to root in moist soil. Over time the plant multiplies and the original stem becomes a colony.


Use Mexican petunia towards the back of a flowering border, or as the centerpiece in a container. Plant next to pentas (Pentas lanceolata) for an effective contrast in both foliage and flower color and texture, with a purple verbena (Glandularia puchella)as ground cover below to mirror the larger, purple flowers of R. britonniana (the butterflies like this combination too!). The dwarf varieties also do well (and look great) in containers - especially those situated in hot sunny situations. The dwarf Mexican petunias also make a handy perennial edging plant for flowers beds and as colorful groundcovers.


Mexican petunia is an easy to grow plant with strikingly colored flowers that is seldom bothered by disease or pests. It blooms enthusiastically throughout the hottest time of the year.








  • admin @ 08:27 
  • (0)
  •    

What is Deck illumination?

Deck illumination is divided into 2 categories: functional and decorative.

Both types can be installed permanently or set up temporarily for the purposes of special occasions.



Functional deck lighting has 3 different purposes:



1. General illumination - When deciding upon a functional deck lighting system it is important to keep in mind 2 factors. Outdoor lighting does not require as much illumination as indoor lighting and any light fixtures should never be placed in such a way is to shine directly into people's eyes. There are a variety of ways to keep lights from shining into eyes. Conceal light fixtures behind wall valances, the eaves of the roof or rafters overhead. It is also possible to mount floodlights in trees or off roof eaves so that light is directed onto the deck area at an angle of 45 degrees. Finally, it is also possible to bounce light from low level sources off the walls of the house, privacy screens or other large vertical surfaces bordering on the deck. In general make a practice of using the fewest bulbs of the highest possible wattage in this system.



2. Safety illumination - Only low levels of illumination are needed for safety lighting along stairs or walkways. It is important to ensure that the lighting itself does not throw deceptive shadows, does not create glare and is not an obstacle of any sort to trip over. Recessed light fixtures, backlighting from beneath deck edges or steps and low mushroom style fixtures are the ideal types to use in these cases.



3. Concentrated illumination - Any deck areas that are used for activities at night should have brighter lighting. Versatile activity lighting might be portable telescoping stands for use with floodlights that can provide simple adjustable lighting. These can be stored away when they are not in use. This type of lighting would require electrical outlets in the various areas.



Decorative deck lighting also has 3 different purposes:



1. Landscape illumination - The whole nighttime image of a deck can be dramatically improved by the illumination of nearby tree branches, a water feature, shrubs or a nearby garden. It is wise to experiment with the placement of floodlights to create effects such as uplighting, downlighting, silhouetting, diffusing and fill lighting. Take the time to view the effects from various parts of the yard as well as on the deck. Make sure that when you make your final choice that you position the lights so that they are not visible in daytime hours if possible.



2. Festive lighting - Celebrations, parties and holiday decorating can often create a need for festive lighting in or around a deck. Strings of miniature lights can be used to link deck items such as railings, pergolas, arbors, patio umbrellas, privacy screens, etc. Larger bulb light strings can be used to create party lanterns. Torches, candles and any other open flame types of illumination should be held in place securely in carefully selected locations that prevent any kind of fire related accident from occurring.



3. Color illumination - Colorful illumination can create wonderful visual effects in and around a deck. Green light is ideal for accenting shrubs and bushes. Yellow lighting gives warmth to brown house siding. Haphazard use of color lighting however has the power to create bizarre effects sometimes. Talk to a professional if possible about this area of illumination.



Outdoor lighting fixtures come in many shapes, sizes and of course price tags. It is a wise decision to visit local home imporvement retail outlets to see what is available. Take the time to consult with knowledgeable staff there to assist you in the planning and implementation of your deck lighting system. If possible make use of both functional lighting and decorative lighting in and around your deck so that it becomes the most attractive deck in the neighborhood.
  • admin @ 07:06 
  • (0)
  •    

How to Select Annual Flowers

Flowers are one of nature's heralds of the seasons. The various flowers that blossom in the different seasons can inform us what season we are in. For instance flowers like the Poinsettia are known to bloom only during the wintertime season, more specifically during December. Annual flowers on the other hand are wonderful flowers to plant in your gardens.



We need to look at the climate of your area before we can  understand the different types of annual flowers and the which flower will survive.



You will find that many of these flowers are excellent choices for the garden as they can be grown in the different seasons. The best way to select the type of annual flowers that you want is to decide which flower varieties you want to see. You should buy the annual flowers that are appropriate for the required season otherwise your flower plant will rot even before you have a chance to plant it.



When you start selecting your annual flowers you can purchase stalwart annuals, half hardy annuals and tender annuals. These differences reflect the type of weather and soil conditions that these annual flowers will grow in.



Remember, the selecting process maybe some what challenging at first. However, don't let that intimidate you, make a selection based on the season and what looks good to you. With experience you will start to understand the other elements, like soil, sun and water, that also have an effect on your annual flowers.



Sturdy annuals are beautiful plants that will produce flowers even in the cold wintertime season. These annual flowers are planted during the spring season or fall season when the weather condition is not that cold.



Unlike other annuals these hardy annual flowers don't like hot weather as they are not heat tolerant.



The types of stalwart annual flowers that you can buy include calendula, foxglove, viola, sweet alyssum, stocks, cornflowers, pansy, larkspur and the many varieties of dianthus cultivars. The half sturdy annual flowers include now-on-the-mountain, celoma, torenia, s blue sage, strawflower, candytuft, baby's breath,  bells of Ireland, love-in-a-mist, and forget-me-nots.



These half hardy annuals don't mind damp cold weather but they can't live during the cold fierce months of winter. You will need to plant these annual flowers after the last spring frost. Unlike tender annuals these half sturdy annuals have no need of warm soil conditions for the seeds to begin sprouting.



While some flower species can not bear hot summertime weather the half hardy annuals may wilt for the weather but they will perk up in the later summer months. You can select some tender annuals like scarlet sage, morning glory, petunias, begonias, celosia, balsam, nasturtium, and verbena.



These annuals, as their name suggests, are not well-off in the cold wintertime months so the idealistic time to grow them is three weeks after the last spring frost.



Since these annual flowers grow well in warm climates you can expect to see them in all of their glory in the late spring and the warm months of summer.



These are just a few of the many annual flowers that you can grow in your garden, and the riot of colors that they bring will utterly make any garden look great. You will also have the added benefit of flowers that grow in different seasons adding a break up of color right through the year.
  • admin @ 05:10 
  • (0)
  •    

How to Create A Beginner's Herb Garden

My kitchen garden is stuffed with flowers and fruit, veggies and herbs. I grow spring and summer crops on the same soil. They go in turns, overlapping sometimes. My challenging climate allows little wiggle room. When the peas go dead, the tomatoes take over. Lettuces leave as eggplant enters.



How come the herbs have a full-time home?  Herbs give me the most bang for my buck, sweat and very few tears.



Easy to grow, carefree, productive describes these “useful” little plants. I suggest five herbs for a beginner’s garden; chives, parsley, rosemary, thyme and basil. Once you grow them you’ll wonder how you got along without them.    

Click here to view our Herbs



Beyond baked potatoes and sour cream, chives pair with egg and cheese dishes, dress up vegetables and fish. A demure member of the onion family they grow in clumps, multiplying each year. The purply-pink blossoms make divinely colored vinegar.



Italian parsley is more pronounced in flavor than the curly variety. Parsley is a team player, improving the taste of other herbs in any dish. I like to use it by the handful. Replace it each year, or if you’re lucky it will re-seed.



Rosemary has a pine type taste that stands up to beef, pork and chicken. Yet it stars in herbal teas and desserts, like rosemary-shortbread cookies. Rosemary is a perennial in zone 7 and above, and overwinters indoors in colder climates. Tiny blue flowers are an added attraction.



Thyme’s leaves are tiny but mighty in taste. A smoky, resinous flavor that’s hard to describe. Roast chicken with thyme and lemon is a simple sophisticated pleasure. At home in rock gardens as much as in herb gardens, thyme likes well-drained soil, asking little else.



I can’t explain why my wife shuns green beans yet adores pesto. I just grow more basil. Basil, the essential summer herb loves hot weather. Enjoy it fresh or freeze it for a rainy day. Snip the tips to keep it from blooming too soon.



Grow these herbs close to your kitchen door. The next time you find a delicious recipe asking for herbs; don’t trudge to the grocery store. Just step outside.
  • admin @ 06:38 
  • (0)
  •    

Ideas for Landscape Design

Just like me I am sure you have noticed the yards in front of different houses you drive by. Maybe you see them every morning on your commute to work, or perhaps you live across from someone with a flawless yard.



This always motivates me to spruce up my own yard, what about you? 



Since there are different looks and styles of landscape design out there today we will talk about a few of them now.

 

As you walk around the corner of your neighbor’s house you hear water splashing down. Once you are in the backyard you notice there is a waterfall pouring out from behind a rock formation.



Not only is it a pleasant sound, but the appearance of a rock bed may be unusual, which makes it a wonderful idea.



Boulders or smaller stones can be put together in a way that is pleasing to the eye, once you have those embedded into the ground you can accentuate the look by adding a waterfall, or perhaps some flowers that would naturally exist with rocks.



You might be thinking that a waterfall in your backyard is difficult; and perhaps you are right, but once you enlist the help of a professional landscaper I am sure you will be extremely pleased with the outcome!



As we consider the thought of a rock bed in the backyard you might wonder what types of flowers you would coordinate with. The beauty of landscape design is the amount of options that are available to you. 



We have all seen the flower beds that are full of dainty little color coordinated flowers just shining their faces up to the sun. These are not only common they are also beautiful



When we think of a gorgeous landscape usually a picture of large flowers or colorful plants emerge, we think of foliage that you would not normally see in a suburban yard.



I am not talking about exotic flowers that need 24 hour care, but I am thinking a few steps above the normal daisies and tulips that you find in most places. I visualize color, texture and size!



When you find yourself mapping out a landscape design for your yard be creative, be different.
  • admin @ 10:38 
  • (0)
  •    

Making Your Dream Garden

Home gardening is tricky business. Do you ever wonder how you can get your garden to look like those in popular home-and-garden magazines? Extensive gardening information can help you to plan for your own garden.


Getting a plant to respond well is something anyone can do - don't believe the myth of the green thumb. The only difference between you and those who seem to have them is that they know how to care for different types of plants. Several general steps are involved with getting the results you want, some of which you may have already been doing.


Getting your garden planted is not an easy job, and keeping your garden maintained can be another tricky subject altogether. If you are planning to create your own garden space, proper planning is essential. First, draw a diagram of the area in which you plan to plant your garden. This map of the landscape will be backbone of your plan. Be particularly conscious of sun and shade, dry and wet areas as these will be critical to your plant selection.


Now, begin your gardening by selecting the large shrubs and trees that will be permanent fixtures in your yard. Note their height, distinctive shade, and sunny areas. You decide how much sun or shade you want the areas of your yard to have by your choice of which plants to place.


Then, begin selecting the individual plants you want in your garden. Always remember that you are the one who will be looking at these plants and taking care of them. So choose the plants that make you happy and that you want to give attention to and care for. And of course, be mindful of the climate in your area - plants which thrive in hot sunny climes may not do as well when the winter chills set in up north.


Each kind of plant will have its own water needs, such as frequency of watering and amount of water. For easier care, put plants with similar water requirements near each other. Fertilizing plants will help plants to grow faster and protect against damage. Landscape plants respond very well to fertilizers with a high percent of slow-release organic nitrogen, which ensures that plants reach their full potential for deep, green color. Be sure to consider the condition of the root system.


When attempts at gardening fail, it is often not because people took poor care of their plants, but rather that they chose their plants without taking into consideration the specifics of soil type, temperature zone, and climate that will dictate how well plants will plants do in the area. It's a good idea to visit your local garden center and peruse the catalogs to look for those plants that fill your needs and can thrive in your local environment and climate.


And while you're there, ask a lot of questions. Garden centers tend to attract plant-lovers and experts who really want to help.


Article Source: http://www.gardenepic.com


 


  • admin @ 15:43 
  • (0)
  •    

How to Grow Atis - Sugar Apple

Atis is the most widely grown fruit of the Annona family. Its scientific name is Annona squamosa In the USA it is most known as the Sugar Apple; since we import all our plants from the Philippines we call this Atis


 

Some other names in different countries




Country - Name

-

Bolivia, Costa Rica, Cuba, Panama - anon

-

Colombia - anon de azucar, anon domestico, hanon, mocuyo

-

El Salvador - anona de castilla

-

Nicaragua - anona de Guatemala

-

Grenadines - applebush

-

Brazil - ata, fruta do conde, fruta de condessa, frutiera deconde, pinha, araticutitaia, or ati

-

Philippines - ates or atis

-

Gabon - atte

-

Guatemala, Ecuador - chirimoya

-

Argentina - cachiman

-

Haiti - cachiman cannelle

-

Surinam - kaneelappel

-

Guadeloupe, French Guiana, French West Africa - pomme cannelle

-

Venezuela - rinon

-

Mexico - saramulla, saramuya, ahate

-

Netherlands Antilles - scopappel

-

Jamaica, Bahamas - sweetsop

-

India - ata, luna, meba, sharifa, sarifa, sitaphal, sita pandu, custard apple, scaly custard apple

-

Malaya - bnah nona, nona, seri kaya

-

Thailand - manonah, noinah, pomme cannelle du Cap

-

Vietnam - qu a na

-

China,Cambodia, Laos - mang cau ta  mak khbieb  fan-li-chi





Description

The Atis tree will usually grow from 10-20 feet in height. It has an open crown of branches. The deciduous leaves are arranged on short petioles and are oblong blunt tipped about 2-6 inches in size. They have a dull-green on the upper side and are aromatic when crushed. 

 

The flowers are borne singly or in groups of 2-4. They seem to never fully open, and are about 1 inches long. They have 3 outer petals that are a yellow grown color. They are pale yellow inside with a purple or dark red spot at the base.

 

The fruit is almost round, or conical, from 2-4 inches in size. And its outer skin is composed of knobby segments that are green or gray-green to almost a bluish color. In one form the fruit is actually a dull deep pink. The fruit separates when ripe and reveals a white fragrant juicy edible meat. Usually there are 20-30 seeds however some trees bear seedless fruits.

 

Origin

 

We are not completely sure of the origin of the Atis. Mostly it was cultivated in Central America and Mexico and thought to be brought to the Philippines by the Spanish. It is now found in most areas of Asia and South America including Jamaica, Puerto Rico, Barbados, India, Polynesia, Hawaii, tropical Africa, Egypt, and in dry regions of North Queensland, Australia, and is often found along the roadsides.

 

In India the tree is so common that the fruit is exceedingly popular and abundant in the markets. In Brazil and Bahia this is their most important fruit.



There seems to be 10 major varieties or cultivators

1.      'Red' (A. squamosa var. Sangareddyiz)—red-tinted foliage and flowers, deep-pink rind, mostly non-reducing sugars, insipid, with small, blackish-pink seeds; poor quality; comes true from seed

2.      'Red-speckled'—having red spots on green rind.

3.      'Crimson'—conspicuous red-toned foliage and flowers, deep-pink rind, pink flesh.

4.      'Yellow'; 'White-stemmed'; 'Mammoth' (A. squamosa var. mammoth)—pale yellow petals, smooth, broad, thick, round rind segments that are light russet green; fruits lopsided, pulp soft, white, very sweet; comes true from seed.

5.      'Balangar'—large, with green rind having rough, warty [tuberculate], fairly thick rind segments with creamy margins; sweet; high yielding.

6.      'Kakarlapahad'—very high yielding.

7.      'Washington'—acute tuberculate rind segments, orange-yellow margins; high yielding; late in season, 20 days after others.

8.      'Barbados' and 'British Guiana'—having green rind, orange-yellow margins; high-yielding; late.

9.      'Beni Mazar'—nearly round, large, 5 1/4 to 6 1/2 oz (150-180 g); 56-60% flesh; 15 30 seeds.

10. 'Abd El Razik'—light-green or reddish rind; nearly round, large, maximum 8 1/3 oz (236.3 g); 69.5% flesh; 14 seeds.

Climate

The Atis Tree requires a tropical or near-tropical climate. In saying this it is not uncommon to find them growing in pots in colder climates. They seem to do well when pruned down to a sizable tree and brought in during freezing temps and fruit production does not seem to diminish much. Generally it does best in dry areas and has a high drought tolerance. During the flowering and blooming season drought does interfere with the pollination so it is best to have dry climates during this time or hand pollinate the flowers. In severe drought the tree sheds its leaves and the fruit rind hardens until the rains come.

Soil

Atis is not picky about the soil it’s planted in as long as it is well drained soil. It seems to perform well in sand. Water logging will kill this tree. It contains shallow roots and does not need deep soil. It does fine with irrigation systems.

Propagation

It seems that Atis seeds have a pretty long shelve life and can be kept for 3-4 years. I have found they germinate better a week after removed from the fruit then when just out of the fruit. Germination is rather long for Annona’s at around 30 days. Sometimes by soaking them for 3-4 days first will speed up this germination and improve the rate. Some say you should not soak the seeds at all. Most of these trees are grown from seed and not the other avenues. Seedlings can be budded or grafter when they are a year old. Budding is best done in January through March. Poor results after these dates seem to occur. Cuttings, layers, air layers have a low rate of success, and trees grown by these techniques have shallow root systems and cannot endure drought as well as seedlings do.

Fruit Production

Atis seedling around 5 years old may yield 50 fruits per tree in late summer or fall. The older the tree gets the less fruit it yields. Most people replace the tree once they get between 10-20 years of age. The fruits do not really ripen on the older trees but turn black and dry up.

Pests

Here is Florida and also the Caribbean there are a few pests.

1.      Seed borer – chalcid fly or Bephratelloides cubensis, infests the seeds and mummifies the partially grown fruit. This can be prevented by covering the small emerging fruit with a plastic bag and loose tape to prevent the fly from entering the fruit.

2.      Similar damage is caused by B. maculicollis in Colombia, Venezuela and Surinam, by B. ruficollis in Panama, and B. paraguayensis in Paraguay.

3.      Soft Scale Philephedra sp attacks leaves and twigs and deposits honeydew on them. 

4.      Ambrosia beetles lay eggs on the stems and the larvae can cause dieback in the winter.

5.      Mealy bug in Australia can be easily controlled

6.      Green tree ant creates nests that can cover the tree in India

Diseases

1.      Leaf blight in India cause a fungus Colletotrichum annonicola.

 

Most people break open the Atis and enjoy the flesh segments. The seed are just spit out. Similar to how people eat water melon. Sometimes the flesh is pressed through cheese cloth for the juice to add to mile, or ice cream. This fruit is never cooked.

1.      The seeds are acrid and poisonous.

2.      Bark, leaves and seeds contain alkaloid and anonaine

3.      Powdered seeds and fruits serve as fish poison and insecticide.

4.      Seed paste of seed powder has been applied to the head of those infested with lice. One must note to keep this away from the eyes or blindness can occur.

5.      The leaves yield excellent oils for terpenes and sesquiterpenes for limited use in perfumes

6.      Fiber from the bark can be used for cords.

Medical Uses (Use with Doctors Advice)

1.      Crushed leaves are sniffed to overcome hysteria and fainting spells

2.      Leaves can be applied on ulcers and wounds

3.      Decoction of the leaves or with other plants is swallowed as a tonic for colds, digestive or to clarify the urine.

4.      Non Ripe Fruit is employed against diarrhea

5.      Crushed ripe fruit mixed with salt is applied on tumors

6.      The bark and roots are an astringent

7.      The roots are administered as a drastic treatment for dysentery and other ailments

.


Food Value Per 100 g of Edible Portion*
































































































Calories



88.9-95.7 g



Moisture



69.8-75.18 g



Fat



0.26-1.10 g



Carbohydrates**



19.16-25.19 g



Crude Fiber



1.14-2.50 g



Protein



1.53-2.38 g



Amino Acids:



 



Tryptophan



9-10 mg



Methionine



7-8 mg



Lysine



54-69 mg



Minerals:



 



Ash



0.55-1.34 mg



Phosphorus



23.6-55.3 mg



Calcium



19.4-44.7 mg



Iron



0.28-1.34 mg



Vitamins:



 



Carotene



5-7 I.U.



Thiamine



0.100-0.13 mg



Riboflavin



0.113-0.167 mg



Niacin



0.654-0.931 mg



Ascorbic Acid



34.7-42.2 mg



 



 






*Minimum and maximum levels of constituents from analyses made in the Philippines, Central America and Cuba.

**The average sugar content is 14.58% and is about 50-50 glucose and sucrose.

Portions of the data from Morton, J. 1987. Sugar Apple. p. 69–72. In: Fruits of warm climates. Julia F. Morton, Miami, FL.




  • admin @ 09:48 
  • (0)
  •    

Growing Tropical Plants in Non-Tropical Reqions

Introduction

 

            Tropical Paradise. We often see commercials of Tropical Vacations and dream of better days sitting under the sun with a drink in our hands. What is it about the tropics we so enduring? What lures us to these places? In colder climates during the winter months plants have acclimated to the climate. They can take freezing temperatures and months of snow and ice. However tropical plants are not capable of surviving these climates. But we still long for that Tropical fruit we buy in the store for outrageous prices. What if we could go over to a tropical tree, select a ripe fruit and eat it right then and there, while outside a blizzard is taking place? Our own tropical paradise, right inside out own home. Many tropical plants will grow with the right care and conditions in areas that normally would not permit them. These same plants that grow in abundance in Asia, South America, Africa, can grow right in your own living room, ready to pluck the ripe, sweet fruit grown specifically by you.

 

Potting

 

            There are many different types of pots available and each has its benefits and drawbacks. There is plastic with can heat up or freeze quickly, Metal, same as plastic,

Clay and wood dry quicker, ceramic that can be heavy and many others that you can buy at local garden centers. For the most part all can be used quite successfully with tropical plants. Choose one based on your own preferences.

 

            These pots should have holes in the bottom for adequate drainage. When you buy your pot, and before you put in soil, cover these holes with a mesh of some sort to help retain the soil, it is also good to put down an inch or two of gravel to insure good drainage. With tropical plants drainage is essential to healthy plants. 

 

            Potting soil from the local garden center will suffice; however a much better solution would be 1 part Perlite or Vermiculite, 1 part course sand, and 1 part Peat. This gives good drainage as well as sufficient nutrients. Make sure your soil is not packed down heavy to allow good drainage but not excessive drainage.

 

            Remove your plant from its original container; look carefully at the root system. It they are heavily packed in and there is more root then dirt, we want to prune these roots before we plant. Take some of these roots and loosen them up and then carefully clip the ends to stimulate the plant to root more in its new container. If pruning is not needed, then just loosen the root ball before planting.

 

            Place the plant in the new container making sure you have filled it halve way with the new planting material. You want to make sure that when you fill the rest of the container with soil, the soil line is the same as the original plant when you pulled it out. The soil like should be about 1-4 inches below the rim of the pot when you are all finished.

 

            Important key: Make sure your fully grown plant will be proportional to your pot. Don’t put an 8 foot tall tree in a 10 inch pot. Allow the roots to be able to grow, the larger the pot the more fruit it will bear.

           

Light

 

            Tropical plants usually require lots of sunlight, anywhere you can place them to receive full sunlight is beneficial to them. Search on the internet for your species to find out their light requirements. Some tropicals do well in partial shade however most need to receive the maximum sunlight available.

           

            Tropical plants, when you receive them are most likely used to full sunlight, when you are going to bring them indoors, or for winter times, when bringing them indoors, you must acclimate them to your indoor area. Make sure to put them near a good light source and if possible add additional light

 

Water

 

            Tropical plants are used to lots of water, however they are also used to well drained soil, so their water requirements are different for potted plants. These dependencies are based on size of the pot, size of the plant, type of plant, temperature where you keep the plant, the humidity and the type of soil you have. You are usually safe to water, when the upper surface of the soil is dry before you water your plant. Slowly fill the container watching for runoff at the bottom holes. Remember that wood or clay pots dry faster, making watering more frequent, and cooler weather slows down the growth of the plant, thus reducing the need to water as much.

 

Temperature

 

            This is probably the key ingredient to successful tropical plant keeping. NO FREEZING WEATHER. Tropical plants cannot take cold temperatures, so you will need to find a way to bring these indoors. Cold temperatures will lead to root damage, and leave damage. Again it depends on the species of tropical plant you have to the extent it can take cold weather. Some plants you can just cover overnight and then remove each morning, others will need to be brought indoors. If you bring them indoors make sure you keep them away from drafts from doors or windows to freeze, and out of the heating vent areas so not to dry out too fast.

           

Fertilizer

 

            Too much fertilizer is very bad for tropical plants. The best type of fertilizer to use are water soluble types, any local garden center can help you pick out a good fertilizer that will meet the plants requirements. Read the directions completely. After spending good money on a beautiful tropical plant, you would hate to kill it by over fertilizing it. Usually with a tropical plant the mature foliage will show deep green indicating that you are fertilizing on the correct scale. Make sure your fertilizer has a complete balanced diet of Nitrogen,         Phosphorus, Potassium, and Lesser amounts of Magnesium, Iron, Manganese, Zinc, Copper, again Read the label.

 

Pruning

           

            With most container tropical plants little or no pruning is needed. However if the plant becomes “leggy” due to poor light conditions then cut it back greatly to force it to bush out. If the top becomes too large for the root structure, again a large pruning spree is needed. Also when you start to get leaf shed and twig die back this is an indication that the root structure is not large enough for the top foliage and pruning is needed.

           

Fruitfulness

 

            Will I get fruit? This is the question we all ask. Is it worth the time and effort? Ask anyone that has a fruit tree planted in a pot, as they pick tropical fruit on a blizzard day of 10 below zero, and they will always tell you “Yes!” For the most part container tropic plants are dependant on the light source and size of the pot to how much fruit they will have. Most fruit trees will fruit in pots as long as we keep all of the requirements alive in our head. The larger the tree the larger the pot that is needed. Fruit will bear proportional to the size of the pot and plant. Please keep in mind that some fruit will need a presence of another cultivator to be able to fruit. Again check the specifics of your plant before you decide to buy it.

 

Copyright Dr. Peter T. Dixon D.B.S.

 

 

See Our AboutMe page for our newsletter and other free papers and software


 

Our Store


 

Have you ever wanted a Tropical Paradise but live in an area that will not grow these rare and wonderful plants? Now you can grow these in any area of the world with this information. Its easier then you think.

 

Growing Tropical Plants in Non Tropical Regions

  • admin @ 10:16 
  • (0)
  •    

Papaya – Not just a Tropical Plant Anymore

By Dr. Peter T. Dixon D.B.S.

 

Most people see a papaya in the local store and have no clue what it is. Is it a fruit, is it an herb, is it a vegetable? These are just some of the questions they ask. Do you know it has great medicinal value? Lets look at the history of papaya, the different types, its value and of course how anyone in any area can grow this beautiful tropical plant. The papaya is closely related to the passionflower.

 

The most common papaya we see is ‘Caribbean Red’. The stores sell this, usually in abundance, but also at a high price. Unless you are lucky enough to live in an area that can support mass production of this plant, you are at the stores mercy to buy.

 

Let’s look at the history. We do not have a clear picture of the history of papaya. We can only assume from local legends brought down from generation to generation of the plant. We can deduct from this that it is believed to be native to southern Mexico and neighboring Central America, however there are still lots of Asian legends that do not support this theory. Until recently the papaya has only been grown as a tropical plant, leaving many in colder zones to only grow this plant in their mind. Part of this Guide will show you how you are able to grow this beautiful plant in almost any zone in the United States of America, and those countries that fall into the same zones.

 

The papaya is not really a fruit, but considered an herb. However most people think of the papaya as a fruit. I can have many different shapes, sizes, colors and tastes. There are varieties that are dwarf only reaching 2-3 feet high, and varieties that can reach up to 20 feet high. Fruits that can reach 2 inches up to fruits that are almost 3 feet long and can weigh up to 12 lbs. Colors that vary from Green all the way to red and every color in-between. Today papaya can be found all year long with the peak season being early summer and fall. Most of the papayas imported come from Hawaii, but smaller quantities from Florida, California, Mexico, Puerto Rico, and Central and South American countries are becoming more available.

 

By now you are asking, what really is a papaya lets address this now. Again, this beautiful plant is commonly and with error, referred to as a “tree” or “fruit”. It is nothing more then a large herb. It is a fast growing plant that can reach 6 to 10 feet in its first year and can reach as high as 20-30 feet in ideal conditions. It has a hollow stem colored green or a deep purple, with the stems reaching 12-18 inches in length. As the leaves turn yellow and fall off, with the new growth sprouting from the top, the stems become roughened by the scars left by these leafs. The sprouting top, are leaves that emerge directly from the upper part of the plant in a nearly horizontal petioles 1 to 4 feet long, again being hollow inside, but succulent green or even a purple hue. Each of these leaves are divided into 5-9 main segments, with each part divided irregularly. These can each vary from 1-2 feet in width. They seem to have a yellowish color to the ribs and veins. Each leaf has a life span of 4-8 months in length before turning yellow and falling off. If you were to cut this leaf before it falls off you will notice a white milky latex type liquid, both the leaves and stem seem to contain this feature. 

 

Papaya are pistillate, or female, some are staminate, or male, and some maybe moneocious plants having both male and female flowers. The male and female plants can be determined in one of two ways. The first way is the only way to tell when the plant is still too small to bear flowers. When you first remove an 8 inch or higher plant from its pot, pay close attention to its root structure. The male roots long and skinny. The females are wide and ball shaped and allow the plant to bear heavy fruit. The second way to tell is by the flowers, however this can be deceiving. A male flower is on a long stem before the actual flower, the female flowers are right against the trunk of the herb. Some plants, during certain times of the year, can produce the staked male flowers and other times the perfect female flowers. Male or hermaphrodite plants may change completely to female plants after being beheaded, or by the heat of summer. Both a male and female plant is required to bear fruit.

 

The fruits tent to be smooth-skinned and have colors of green, yellow, orange and rose. These fruits can weigh as much as 20 pounds, but usually around 1-3 pounds. They hang on short stalks in a cluster like pattern, directly from the trunk under the umbrella of giant leaves. The papaya flowers and fruits all year. The wild cultivars are the most common papayas in American grocery stores. These are moneocious cultivars, reaching only 6-8 feet tall and only produce small, single serving fruits. The Mexican or Asian variety produces fruits in much larger sizes and quantities.

 

Most papayas are short lived perennial plants. They last from 5-7 years. The younger plants produce more fruit then the older plants so it is best to cultivate a succession of papayas so you will always have some heavy bearing young plants.

The Fruit of the papaya has a flesh that is creamy and firm, yellow in color. Most are fibreless, sweet and refreshing. There are different flavors of fruit, ranging from melon to apricot. The black plentiful seeds in the center cavity are also edible, tasting like watercress or nasturtium. You will know when the papaya is ripe as it is soft with thin skin. Most store bought papayas are green and picked to early to have the sweet taste papayas are known for. Like avocados, they will ripen off the tree at room temperature, but they will never taste as good as a tree ripened fruit. Never chill your papaya’s until they are completely ripe. The young leaves are sometimes eaten like spinach.


WARNING - Leaves and unripe fruits are toxic and must be cooked before eating.


Most publication tell you there are only two types of varieties, however this is not correct. They list Hawaiian and Mexican, but leave out Asian. You cannot list the Asian varieties under the Hawaiian variety. Most of the Hawaiian varieties are know as Solo Papayas and these are the types most often found in supermarkets. The fruits are pear shaped, and weigh around 1 lb. Yellow skinned when ripe. The Mexican varieties are not as common and have a pick or orange fruit, depending on the variety. Mexican papayas are much larger and the fruits can weigh up to 20 lbs. The flavors are not as intense as the Hawaiian Varieties, but still delicious. The Asian Varieties combining the two types, they are intense in taste and are large fruited.

 

Most people eat these papayas peeled and seeded, often cut in wedges and served with lime or lemon. They can also be used in salads or fruit cups. Firmer varieties can be used as vegetables. The juice and nectar may be prepared from peeled or unpeeled fruit and are sold fresh in bottles or canned. Unripe papaya should never bee eaten raw because of its latex content. Green papaya is frequently boiled and served as a vegetable or in soup. The young leaves can be cooked and eaten like spinach. Mature leaves are bitter and must be boiled with a change of water to eliminate much of the bitterness.   One can eat the older stems, after peeling and grating, the bitter juice squeezed out, and the mashed fiber mixed with sugar and salt.

 

Now we can talk about soil and location. Near the end of this article I will show you how to grow these magnificent plants in a container to enjoy in non-tropical regions.

 

Papayas grow in almost any types of soil, but they require it to be adequately drained. If you have poor drainage you will end up with root rot. Papayas can tolerate moderate winds if well rooted. Fertilizer schedules vary with soil type, climate and the season. Generally it is suggested for the home gardener to use the same fertilize schedule as the garden they grow local vegetables. Too much fertilizer can be worse then not enough.

Grow papaya in fertile, well-drained soil. This is one of the easiest of tropical fruits to grow. Papayas usually have male and female flowers on separate plants and you can't determine the sex until they flower, usually about 6 months after germination. Male flowers are thin and borne on short stalks; female flowers are wide and borne directly on the trunk. Select only hermaphroditic plants or all female plants with one male for each 15-20 females. Grow only locally developed cultivars for best results.



Light: Papayas need full sun and warmth. Grown in partial shade, they produce fruit that is not very sweet.



Moisture: The tropical papaya needs at least 4 in of rain per month for optimal fruit production. They like plenty of water when it's warm and less when it's cooler.



Hardiness: USDA Zones 9 - 11. Papaya does not tolerate frost or even periods of near freezing temperatures.



Propagation: Papayas are usually propagated from seed which takes 3-5 weeks to germinate. Plant at least four or five seeds to be sure you get female and male plants. Seeds of 'Solo' usually produce only female and hermaphroditic plants. Propagate other named cultivars from cuttings or by grafting onto seedling root stock. Papaya is grown from seed. Dry seed may be stored for a year or more in airtight refrigerated containers. Fresh seeds will usually germinate in 10 to 14 days. Germination can be improved by removing the gelatinous outer seed coat before drying. Seeds are sown either in containers or directly in the ground. Transplanting container-grown plants is usually limited to areas where there is dependable rainfall or supplemental irrigation.




Medicinal Value

The Papaya is regarded as a fair source of iron and calcium, a good source of vitamins A, B and G and an excellent source of vitamin C (ascorbic acid). It is low in calories, fat free, cholesterol free, and a good source of potassium, folate, and fiber. The papaya enzyme called papain is used as a meat tenderizer. It breaks down tough meat fibers. Its use is nothing new. South American cooks have been using papaya to tenderize meat for ages. It is sold as a component in powdered meat tenderizer available in most supermarkets.

It seems the skin is the most potent part of this herb for medical purposes. The seeds are soft enough to chew and spicy. They can be ground up and missed with other juices. It takes about 20 seeds for about 5 days to eliminate most of any intestinal parasite effectively. Papaya also detoxifies the body, speeds metabolic processes and increases elimination of toxins. It also converts the amino acid arginine, which is an essential amino acid for proper cell function. The papaya is an excellent fruit for antioxidants, but also has more vitamin A then carrots and more vitamin C then oranges. It also contains calcium, potassium, iron B vitamin and proteants. 

How to Grow Papaya in Non-Tropcial Regions.

Choose a smaller variety, such as a dwarf species or a variety similar to the Filipino Variety that we sell; these only get 6-8 feet high and make wonderful potted plants.

Potting

            There are many different types of pots available and each has its benefits and drawbacks. There is plastic with can heat up or freeze quickly, Metal, same as plastic,

Clay and wood dry quicker, ceramic that can be heavy and many others that you can buy at local garden centers. For the most part all can be used quite successfully with Papaya. Choose one based on your own preferences.

            These pots should have holes in the bottom for adequate drainage. When you buy your pot, and before you put in soil, cover these holes with a mesh of some sort to help retain the soil, it is also good to put down an inch or two of gravel to insure good drainage. With Papaya drainage is essential to healthy plants. 

            Potting soil from the local garden center will suffice; however a much better solution would be 1 part Perlite or Vermiculite, 1 part course sand, and 1 part Peat. This gives good drainage as well as sufficient nutrients. Make sure your soil is not packed down heavy to allow good drainage but not excessive drainage.

            Place the plant in the new container making sure you have filled it halve way with the new planting material. You want to make sure that when you fill the rest of the container with soil, the soil line is the same as the original plant when you pulled it out. The soil like should be about 1-4 inches below the rim of the pot when you are all finished.

Important key: Make sure your fully grown plant will be proportional to your pot. Don’t put an 8 foot tall tree in a 10 inch pot. Allow the roots to be able to grow, the larger the pot the more fruit it will bear.

Light

            Papaya usually require lots of sunlight, anywhere you can place them to receive full sunlight is beneficial to them. Search on the internet for your species to find out their light requirements. Some tropical do well in partial shade however most need to receive the maximum sunlight available.

                        Papaya, when you receive them are most likely used to full sunlight, when you are going to bring them indoors, or for winter times, when bringing them indoors, you must acclimate them to your indoor area. Make sure to put them near a good light source and if possible add additional light

Water

            Papaya are used to lots of water, however they are also used to well drained soil, so their water requirements are different for potted plants. These dependencies are based on size of the pot, size of the plant, type of plant, temperature where you keep the plant, the humidity and the type of soil you have. You are usually safe to water, when the upper surface of the soil is dry before you water your plant. Slowly fill the container watching for runoff at the bottom holes. Remember that wood or clay pots dry faster, making watering more frequent and cooler weather slows down the growth of the plant, thus reducing the need to water as much.

Temperature

            This is probably the key ingredient to successful Papaya keeping. NO FREEZING WEATHER. Papaya cannot take cold temperatures, so you will need to find a way to bring these indoors. Cold temperatures will lead to root damage, and leave damage. Again it depends on the species of tropical plant you have to the extent it can take cold weather. Some plants you can just cover overnight and then remove each morning, others will need to be brought indoors. If you bring them indoors make sure you keep them away from drafts from doors or windows to freeze, and out of the heating vent areas so not to dry out too fast.

  • admin @ 13:44 
  • (0)
  •    

How to Buy Plants on Ebay

We invest thousands of dollars on plants and landscaping for out yard. For some reason, we deem it necessary to compete with those around us for the best yard, or just for a nice yard.



Those of us that are plant lovers search high and low for something exotic or a bargain. EBay can be both; however there are some precautions you need to take before you buy.


1. Make sure that you are dealing with a real nursery, not just someone selling out of their back yard. This can easily be done by asking the seller if they have a license to sell plants. Most states require more then one license. Here in Florida I need 3. One for the city, one for the county, and my plant license from the Agriculture department. I get inspected regularly to make sure my plants are high quality and free from disease. If a seller can not produce a valid license DO NOT BUY. You could be in trouble for importing in diseased plants or plants that are not allowed.



2. Insured. Any real business will be insured. This if for multiple purposes. There are liability concerns that should be addressed by any business person. The insurance protects the seller not the buyer.



3. Invasive Plants. The buyer is the person responsible for making sure the plant is allowed in the state. Every state has specific laws requiring what plants are allowed in the state. Even though very few packages are checked by the state, if caught the plants could be confiscated or worse, you, the buyer, could be heavily fined. Most states will not come after the seller but will come after the buyer, since they live in that state.



4. Zone. Not all plants can survive in the zone you live. We sell tropical plants. These plants will not grow in zone 5. I also have an eBook and an eBay guide that will show you how to grow these plants in any zone. Most tropical plants have the ability to grow anywhere if you take the right steps. Just think, if you could walk into your living room and pick a rare lychee fruit and eat it while watching a blizzard out your window.



5. Shipping and packing. This is a subject that most people do not want to hear. When shipping a plant its not as simple as throwing in a box and taking to the post office. If not packed correctly the stem will break and die. Precautions need to be taken to make sure they will not break. We spend lots of money to pack our plants, we put bamboo stakes to keep the stem in one piece. We wrap the pot so the soil does not come out, we water and place a moisture material around the plant so the plant will survive. These are all additional steps to make sure you receive a plant arrives alive. A seller who charges bare minimum for shipping on a plant that is already very cheap is usually someone that does not have a license to sell and you are taking your chances with them. A good nursery charges a decent amount for shipping and handling, just to make sure you get your plant. All these costs the seller incurs are usually part of the handling fee. If the seller is not charging the buyer for this, he is eating this price somewhere else, usually in quality, license fees and insurance. Yes, you might get that plant for 3 dollars cheaper with another seller, but is it worth it to get something that might have a problem and kill everything in your yard? Or a fine from the state you live because the plant was not from a licensed nursery? Only you can decide that.



6. Guarantee. Almost every seller has some sort of guarantee. Postal mail is not treated delicately. They throw them around and something can possibly happen. How the seller handles this is the difference between having a successful sale or a sale that leaves a bad taste in the buyer. Most problems are not the fault of the seller. Unless you purchase additional insurance when you pay for your plant the seller must eat those costs or loose a customer.



7. Follow-up. Find a seller that has a website and a newsletter. Subscribe fsto that newsletter, you can always remove yourself from that list. Take a few weeks and read the newsletters the seller sends out. Are they only sales? Are they content? The purpose of these newsletter from the sellers point of view is to get sales, but a newsletter to the buyer must be more then a sales pitch. Find a seller that has lots of information in their newsletter and website. Information is critical, the more educated you are the better your buying experience will be. Our newsletter is always full of information and very little sales pitch. I believe that if you get a good value out of our newsletter you will be more inclined to buy when you are ready. I value my customers, I don’t want them for a one time sale, I want them for life, not just to buy but for any need they might have such as questions, opinions, etc. A seller must always remember the buyer is a person not just a paypal account.


 


Peter Dixon Owner of Nipa Hut Gardens and Gifts offers a wide array of Free Gardend Ebooks and Garden Articles as well asproducts for the whole family, which are usually not found in the large retail stores and include, rare fruit trees, plants, vines, flowers, Free Garden Ebooks, Free Business Ebooks, Digital books, Digital programs and more. Visit his website at www.nipahutgardens.com


  • admin @ 08:31 
  • (0)
  •    

How To Grow Longan Fruit

* Closely allied to the glamorous lychee, in the family Sapindaceae, the longan, or lungan, also known as dragon's eye or eyeball, and as mamoncillo chino in Cuba, has been referred to as the "little brother of the lychee", or li-chihnu, "slave of the lychee". Botanically, it is placed in a separate genus, and is currently designated Dimocarpus longan Lour. (syns. Euphoria longan Steud.; E. longana Lam.; Nephelium longana Cambess.). According to the esteemed scholar, Prof. G. Weidman Groff, the longan is less important to the Chinese as an edible fruit, more widely used than the lychee in Oriental medicine.

 

Before we start I would like to give you my wife's favorite Longan Recipe

RICE AND LONGAN DESSERT (Khao Nieo Piak Lamyai)

 

5 cups water

 

1/2 cup glutinous rice

 

1 cup canned or fresh Longans with syrup (if Fresh add sugar and water for syrup)

 

3/4 cup sugar

 

1 cup thick coconut milk

 

1 teaspoon salt

 

Bring water to boil in large saucepan. Add rice and cook 10 minutes.  Remove from heat, cover and let stand 20 minutes. Add Longans with syrup and sugar and mix well.

 

Cool. Combine coconut milk and salt. Serve rice mixture in individual bowls. Top each with spoonful of salted coconut milk. Makes 5 1/4 cups or 6 to 8 servings.
 


The longan tree is handsome, erect, to 30 or 40 ft (9-12 m) in height and to 45 ft (14 m) in width, with rough-barked trunk to 2 1/2 ft (76.2 cm) thick and long, spreading, slightly drooping, heavily foliaged branches. The evergreen, alternate, par pinnate leaves have 4 to 10 opposite leaflets, elliptic, ovate-oblong or lanceolate, blunt-tipped; 4 to 8 in (10-20 cm) long and 1 3/8 to 2 in (3.5-5 cm) wide; leathery, wavy, glossy-green on the upper surface, minutely hairy and grayish-green beneath. New growth is wine-colored and showy. The pale-yellow, 5- to 6-petalled, hairy-stalked flowers, larger than those of the lychee, are borne in upright terminal panicles, male and female mingled. The fruits, in drooping clusters, are globose, 1/2 to 1 in (1.25-2.5 cm) in diameter, with thin, brittle, yellow-brown to light reddish-brown rind, more or less rough (pebbled), the protuberances much less prominent than those of the lychee. The flesh (aril) is mucilaginous, whitish, translucent, somewhat musky, sweet, but not as sweet as that of the lychee and with less "bouquet". The seed is round, jet-black, shining, with a circular white spot at the base, giving it the aspect of an eye.


The longan is native to southern China, in the provinces of Kwangtung, Kwangsi, Schezwan and Fukien, between elevations of 500 and 1,500 ft (150-450 m). Groff wrote: "The lungan, not so highly prized as the lychee, is nevertheless usually found contiguous to it .... It thrives much better on higher ground than the lychee and endures more frost. It is rarely found growing along the dykes of streams as is the lychee but does especially well on high ground near ponds .... The lungan is more seldom grown under orchard conditions than is the lychee. There is not so large a demand for the fruit and the trees therefore more scattered although one often finds attractive groups of lungan." Groff says that the longan was introduced into India in 1798 but, in Indian literature, it is averred that the longan is native not only to China but also to southwestern India and the forests of upper Assam and the Garo hills, and is cultivated in Bengal and elsewhere as an ornamental and shade tree. It is commonly grown in former Indochina (Thailand, Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam and in Taiwan). The tree grows but does not fruit in Malaya and the Philippines. There are many of the trees in Reunion and Mauritius.

The longan was introduced into Florida from southern China by the United States Department of Agriculture in 1903 and has flourished in a few locations but never became popular. There was a young tree growing at the Agricultural Station in Bermuda in 1913. A tree planted at the Federal Experiment Station in Mayaguez, Puerto Rico, was 10 ft (3 m) high in 1926, 23 ft (7 m) in 1929. A longan tree flourished in the Atkins Garden in Cuba and seedlings were distributed but found to fruit irregularly and came to be valued mostly for their shade and ornamental quality. In Hawaii, the longan was found to grow faster and more vigorously than the lychee but the fruit is regarded there as less flavorful than the lychee.



None of the other 4 varieties described by Groff has any great merit.

'Wu Yuan' ("black ball") has small, sour fruit used for canning. The tree is vigorous and seedlings are valued as rootstocks. 'Kao Yuan' is believed to be a slightly better type of this variety and is widely canned.

('Early Rice') is the earliest variety and a form called 'Ch'i chin tsao ho' precedes it by 2 weeks. In quality, both are inferior to 'Wu Yuan'.

'She p' i' ('Snake skin') has the largest fruit, as big as a small lychee and slightly elongated. The skin is rough, the seed large, some of the juice is between the rind and the flesh, and the quality is low. Its only advantage is that it is very late in season.

'Hua Kioh' ('Flower Skin'), slightly elongated, has thin, nearly tasteless flesh, some of the juice is between the rind and the flesh, and the overall quality is poor. It is seldom propagated vegetatively.

There are no "chicken- tongue" (aborted seed) varieties in China.

–'Fukien Lungan' ('Fukugan') was introduced from Fukien Province in mainland China. The other, very similar and possibly a mutant of 'Fukien', is 'Lungan Late', which matures a month later than 'Fukien'.

In 1954, William Whitman of Miami introduced a superior variety of longan, the from Hawaii. It began to bear in 1958. The fruit is large for the species, the seed is small, and the flesh is aromatic, sweet and spicy. The tree produces fairly good crops in midsummer. One hundred or more air-layers have been brought by air from Hawaii and planted at various locations in southern Florida and in the Bahamas. A seedling planting and selection program was started in 1962 at the USDA Subtropical Horticulture Research Unit, Miami. The plants were all open-pollinated seedlings of the canning variety, 'Wu Yuan', brought in from Canton in 1930 as P.I. #89409. Some set fruit in 1966 and 1967 but more of them in 1968. Evaluation of these and other acquisitions continues. Included in the study are M-17886, 'Chom Poo Nuch', and M-17887, 'E-Haw'.



On the other hand, after a long period of cool weather over the 3 winter months, with no frost, longan trees bloom well. Blooming is poor after a warm winter.




Most longan trees have been grown from seed. The seeds lose viability quickly. After drying in the shade for 4 day, they should be planted without delay, but no more than 3/4 in (2 cm) deep, otherwise they may send up more than one sprout. Germination takes place within a week or 10 days. The seedlings are transplanted to shaded nursery rows the following spring and set in the field 2-3 years later during winter dormancy.

In Kwangtung Province, when vegetative propagation is undertaken, it is mostly by means of inarching, nearly always onto 'Wu Yuan' trees 3-5 years old and 5 to 6 ft (1.5-1.8 m) high. The union is made no less than 4 ft (1.2 m) from the ground because it is most convenient. Nevertheless, the point of attachment remains weak and needs to be braced with bamboo to avoid breaking in high winds.

Grafting is uncommon and when it is done, it is a sandwich graft on longan rootstock, 3 or 4 grafts being made successively, one onto the beheaded top of the preceding one, in the belief that it makes the graft wind-resistant and that it induces better size and quality in the fruit.



In China, if the longan is raised on the lowlands it is always put on the edges of raised beds. On high ground, the trees are placed in pre-enriched holes on the surface. The trees are fertilized after the fruit harvest and during the blooming season, at which time the proportion of nitrogen is reduced. Fresh, rich soil is added around the base of the trees year after year. The longan needs an adequate supply of water and can even stand brief flooding, but not prolonged drought. Irrigation is necessary in dry periods.

An important operation is the pruning of many flower-bearing twigs–3/4 of the flower spikes in the cluster being removed. Later, the fruit clusters are also thinned, in order to increase the size and quality of the fruits.

Generally, the trees are planted too close together, seriously inhibiting productivity when they become overcrowded. In China, full-grown trees given sufficient room–at least 40 ft (12 m) apart–may yield 400 to 500 lbs (180-225 kg) in good years. Crops in Florida from trees 20 ft (6 m) tall and broad, have varied from light–50-100 lbs (22.5-45 kg)–to medium–150-250 lbs (68-113 kg), and heavy–300-500 lbs (135-225 kg). Rarely such trees may produce 600-700 lbs (272-317 kg). Larger trees have larger crops but if the trees become too tall harvesting is too difficult, and they should be topped. Harvesters, working manually from ladders, or using pruning poles cut the entire cluster of fruit with leaves attached.

A serious problem with the longan is its irregular bearing–often one good year followed by 1 or 2 poor years. Another handicap is the ripening season–early to mid-August in China, which is the time of typhoons; August and September in Florida which is during the hurricane season. Rain is a major nuisance in harvesting and in conveying the fruit to market or to drying sheds or processing plants.



Preliminary tests in Florida indicate that the fruit can be frozen and will not break down as quickly as the lychee when thawed.


The longan is relatively free of pests and diseases. At times, there may be signs of mineral deficiency which can be readily corrected by supplying minor elements in the fertilization program.


Longans are much eaten fresh, out-of-hand, but some have maintained that the fruit is improved by cooking. In China, the majority are canned in syrup or dried. The canned fruits were regularly shipped from Shanghai to the United States in the past. Today, they are exported from Hong Kong and Taiwan.

For drying, the fruits are first heated to shrink the flesh and facilitate peeling of the rind. Then the seeds are removed and the flesh dried over a slow fire. The dried product is black, leathery and smoky in flavor and is mainly used to prepare an infusion drunk for refreshment.

A liqueur is made by macerating the longan flesh in alcohol.










































































Food Value Per 100 g of Edible Portion


 


Fresh


Dried


Calories


61


286


Moisture


82.4 g


17.6 g


Protein


1.0 g


4.9 g


Fat


0.1 g


0.4 g


Carbohydrates


15.8 g


74.0 g


Fiber


0.4 g


2.0 g


Ash


0.7 g


3.1 g


Calcium


10 mg


45 mg


Phosphorus


42 mg


196 mg


Iron


1.2 mg


5.4 mg


Thiamine


 


0.04 mg


Ascorbic Acid


6 mg (possibly)


28 mg




Seeds and rind: The seeds, because of their saponin content, are used like soapberries (Sapindus saponaria L.) for shampooing the hair. The seeds and the rind are burned for fuel and are part of the payment of the Chinese women who attend to the drying operation.

Wood: While the tree is not often cut for timber, the wood is used for posts, agricultural implements, furniture and construction. The heartwood is red, hard, and takes a fine polish. It is not highly valued for fuel.

Medicinal Uses: The flesh of the fruit is administered as a stomachic, febrifuge and vermifuge, and is regarded as an antidote for poison. A decoction of the dried flesh is taken as a tonic and treatment for insomnia and neurasthenic neurosis. In both North and South Vietnam, the "eye" of the longan seed is pressed against a snakebite in the belief that it will absorb the venom.

Leaves and flowers are sold in Chinese herb markets but are not a part of ancient traditional medicine. The leaves contain quercetin and quercitrin. Burkill says that the dried flowers are exported to Malaysia for medicinal purposes. The seeds are administered to counteract heavy sweating and the pulverized kernel, which contains saponin, tannin and fat, serves as a styptic.

* Portions of this document by Morton, J. 1987. Longan. p. 259–262. In: Fruits of warm climates. Julia F. Morton, Miami, FL


  • admin @ 07:15 
  • (0)
  •    

Green Pet Food? What is it?

When it comes to natural pet food, pet owners don't seem to hesitate to spend more for "green" peace of mind, but does it really add up to a cleaner environment?


According to Dr. Andrew Weil, world-renowned leader and pioneer in the field of integrative medicine, it's all the steps from farm to bowl that determine the credibility and impact your pet food may have on the environment.


"I think it's especially critical for pet owners to examine the type of protein that goes into their pet's food," said Weil who has two Rhodesian Ridgebacks, Jambo and Daisy. "My dogs are a big part of my family, so knowing the protein source of their food is really important to me."


Weil's personal concern over the health and well-being of his dogs, combined with his personal passion for the environment, led him to get involved with launching one of the first pet foods with U.S. source-verified meat and poultry.


"What impressed me was their attention to detail when it came to knowing the source of their protein and their unique ability to process the pet food in their own manufacturing facilities under strict guidelines," said Weil.


Pet Promise was developed with a two-part mission: First, with a promise to pet owners to produce a pet food made without the use of animal by-products, rendered meat or chicken meals, added growth hormones or antibiotics. And second, with a commitment to environmental practices, which involve sourcing their protein exclusively from natural family farms and ranches.


The positive impact family farms have on the environment may be more critical than most people realize, but, unfortunately, many family farmers go out of business every week. Family farms that support the use of sustainable agricultural practices are often replaced by factory farms. Environmental proponents believe that factory farms unnecessarily produce tons of waste that compound pollution problems.


"Factory farms are major offenders of the environment today. The amount of residues from antibiotics and hormones that goes into the water tables is significant," said Weil. "By choosing pet foods made with meat and poultry protein sourced from family farms, you are sending a message about these practices, and helping to do something positive for the environment."


  • admin @ 12:39 
  • (0)
  •    

How To Grow Lychee

The lychee is actually part of a group of edible fruits of the soapberry family, Sapindaceae.

Description

The lychee tree can grow upwards of 30-100 feet depending on the conditions of its environment.  It has evergreen leaves, 5 to 8 in long, are pinnate, having 4 to 8 alternate leaflets, somewhat leathery, smooth, glossy, dark-green on the upper surface and grayish-green beneath, and 2 to 3 in long.

The flowers, greenish-white to yellowish flowers are borne in terminal clusters to 30 in long.

Showy fruits, in loose, pendent clusters of 2 to 30 are usually strawberry-red, sometimes rose, pinkish or amber, and some types tinged with green.

Most are aromatic, oval, heart-shaped or nearly round, about 1 in wide and 1 1/2 in  long and  have a thin, leathery, rough or minutely warty skin, flexible and easily peeled when fresh. Immediately beneath the skin of some varieties is a small amount of clear, delicious juice.

The glossy, succulent, thick, translucent-white to grayish or pinkish fleshy aril which usually separates readily from the seed, suggests a large, luscious grape. The flavor of the flesh is distinctive.

Origin and Distribution

The lychee is native to low elevations of southern China, where it flourishes especially along rivers and near the seacoast.

Lychees are grown mostly in dooryards from northern Queensland to New South Wales, but commercial orchards have been established in the past 20 years, some consisting of 5,000 trees.

Varieties

'No Mai Tsze', or 'No mi ts 'z' (glutinous rice) is the leading variety in China; large, red, "dry-and-clean"; seeds often small and shriveled. It is one of the best for drying, and is late in season. It does best when grafted onto the 'Mountain' lychee.

'Kwa Iuk' or 'Kua lu' (hanging green) is a famous lychee; large, red with a green tip and a typical green line; "dry-and-clean"; of outstanding flavor and fragrance. It was, in olden times, a special fruit for presentation to high officials and other persons in positions of honor. Professor Groff was given a single fruit in a little red box!

'Kwai mi' or 'Kuei Wei', (cinnamon flavor) which came to be called 'Mauritius' is smaller, heart-shaped, with rough red skin tinged with green on the shoulders and usually having a thin line running around the fruit. The seed is small and the flesh very sweet and fragrant. The branches of the tree curve upward at the tips and the leaflets curl inward from the midrib.

'Hsiang li', or 'Heung lai' (fragrant lychee) is home by a tree with distinctive erect habit having upward-pointing leaves. The fruit is small, very rough and prickly, deep-red, with the smallest seeds of all, and the flesh is of superior flavor and fragrance. It is late in season. Those grown in Sin Hsing are better than those grown in other locations.

'Hsi Chio tsu', or 'Sai kok tsz' (rhinoceros horn) is borne by a large-growing tree. The fruit is large, rough, broad at the base and narrow at the apex; has somewhat tough and fibrous, but fragrant, sweet, flesh. It ripens early.

'Hak ip', or 'Hei yeh', (black leaf) is borne by a densely-branched tree with large, pointed, slightly curled, dark-green leaflets. The fruit is medium-red, sometimes with green tinges, broad-shouldered, with thin, soft skin and the flesh, occasionally pinkish, is crisp and sweet. This is rated as "one of the best 'water' lychees."

'Fei tsu hsiao', or 'Fi tsz siu' (imperial concubine's laugh, or smile) is large, amber-colored, thin-skinned, with very sweet, very fragrant flesh. Seeds vary from large to very small. It ripens early.

'T' ang po', or 'T' ong pok' (pond embankment) is from a small-leaved tree. The fruit is small, red, rough, with thin, juicy acid flesh and very little rag. It is a very early variety.

'Sheung shu wai' or'Shang hou huai', (President of a Board's embrace) is borne on a small-leaved tree. The fruit is large, rounded, red, with many dark spots. It has sweet flesh with little scent and the seed size is variable. It is rather late in season.

'Ch'u ma lsu', or 'Chu ma lsz' (China grass fiber) has distinctive, lush foliage. The leaves are large, overlapping, with long petioles. The fruits are large with prominent shoulders and rough skin, deep red inside. While very fragrant, the flesh is of inferior flavor and clings to the seed which varies from large to small.

'Ta tsao', or 'Tai tso' (large crop) is widely grown around Canton; somewhat egg-shaped; skin rough, bright-red with many small, dense dots; flesh firm, crisp, sweet, faintly streaked with yellow near the large seed. The juice leaks when the skin is broken. The fruit ripens early.

'Huai chih', or 'Wai chi' (the Wai River lychee) has medium-sized, blunt leaves. The fruit is round with medium-smooth skin, a rich red outside, pink inside; and leaking juice. This is not a high class variety but the most commonly grown, high yielding, and late in season.

'San yueh hung', or 'Sam ut hung' (third month red), also called 'Ma yuen', 'Ma un', 'Tsao kuo', 'Tso kwo', 'Tsao li', or 'Tsoli' (early lychee) is grown along dykes. The branches are brittle and break readily; the leaves are long, pointed, and thick. The fruit is very large, with red, thick, tough skin and thick, medium-sweet flesh with much rag. The seeds are long but aborted. This variety is popular mainly because it comes into season very early.

'Pai la li chih', or 'Pak lap lai chi' (white wax lychee), also called 'Po le tzu', or 'Pak lik tsz (white fragrant plant), is large, pink, rough, with pinkish, fibrous, not very sweet flesh and large seeds. It ripens very late, after 'Huai chih'.

'Shan chi', or 'Shan chih' (mountain lychee), also called 'Suan chih', or 'Sun chi' (sour lychee) grows wild in the hills and is often planted as a rootstock for better varieties. The tree is of erect habit with erect twigs and large, pointed, short-petioled leaves. The fruit is bright-red, elongated, very rough, with thin flesh, acid flavor and large seed.

'T'im ngam', or 'T'ien yeh' (sweet cliff) is a common variety of lychee which Professor Groff reported to be quite widely grown in Kwantung, but not really on a commercial basis.

In his book, The Litchi, Dr. Lal Behari Singh wrote that Bihar is the center of lychee culture in India, producing 33 selected varieties classified into 15 groups. His extremely detailed descriptions of the 10 cultivars recommended for large-scale cultivation I have abbreviated (with a few bracketed additions from other sources):

'Early Seedless', or 'Early Bedana'. Fruit 1 1/3 in (3.4 cm) long, heart-shaped to oval; rough, red, with green interspaces; skin firm and leathery; flesh [ivory] to white, soft, sweet; seed shrunken, like a dog's tooth. Of good quality. The tree bears a moderate crop, early in season.

'Rose-scented'. Fruit 1 1/4 in (3.2 cm) long; rounded-heart-shaped; slightly rough, purplish-rose, slightly firm skin; flesh gray-white, soft, very sweet. Seed round-ovate, fully developed. Of good quality. [Tree bears a moderate crop] in midseason.

'Early Large Red'. Fruit slightly more than 1 1/3 in (3.4 cm) long, usually obliquely heart-shaped; crimson [to carmine], with green interspaces; very rough; skin very firm and leathery, adhering slightly to the flesh. Flesh grayish-white, firm, sweet and flavorful. Of very good quality. [Tree is a moderate bearer], early in season.

'Dehra Dun', [or 'Dehra Dhun']. Fruit less than 1 1/2 in (4 cm) long; obliquely heart-shaped to conical; a blend of red and orange-red; skin rough, leathery; flesh gray-white, soft, of good, sweet flavor. Seed often shrunken, occasionally very small. Of good quality; midseason. [This is grown extensively in Uttar Pradesh and is the most satisfactory lychee in Pakistan.]

'Late Long Red', or 'Muzaffarpur'. Fruit less than 1 1/2 in (4 cm) long; usually oblong-conical; dark-red with greenish interspaces; skin rough, firm and leathery, slightly adhering to the flesh; flesh grayish-white, soft, of good, sweet flavor. Seed cylindrical, fully developed. Of good quality. [Tree is a heavy bearer], late in season.

'Pyazi'. Fruit 1 1/3 in (3.4 cm) long; oblong-conical to heart-shaped; a blend of orange and orange-red, with yellowish-red, not very prominent, tubercles. Skin leathery, adhering; flesh gray-white, firm, slightly sweet, with flavor reminiscent of "boiled onion". Seed cylindrical, fully developed. Of poor quality. Early in season.

'Extra Early Green'. Fruit 1 1/4 in (3.2 cm) long; mostly heart-shaped, rarely rounded or oblong; yellowish-red with green interspaces; skin slightly rough, leathery, slightly adhering; flesh creamy-white, [firm, of good, slightly acid flavor]; seed oblong, cylindrical or flat. Of indifferent quality. Very early in season.

'Kalkattia', ['Calcuttia', or 'Calcutta']. Fruit 1 1/2 in (4 cm) long; oblong or lopsided; rose-red with darker tubercles; skin very rough, leathery, slightly adhering; flesh grayish ivory, firm, of very sweet, good flavor. Seed oblong or concave. Of very good quality. [A heavy bearer; withstands hot winds]. Very late in season.

'Gulabi'. Fruit 1 1/3 in (3.4 cm) long; heart-shaped, oval or oblong; pink-red to carmine with orange-red tubercles; skin very rough, leathery, non-adherent; flesh gray-white, firm, of good subacid flavor; seed oblong-cylindrical, fully developed. Of very good quality. Late in season.

'Late Seedless', or 'Late Bedana'. Fruit less than 1 3/8 in (3.65 cm) long; mainly conical, rarely ovate; orange-red to carmine with blackish-brown tubercles; skin rough, firm, non-adherent; flesh creamy-white, soft; very sweet, of very good flavor except for slight bitterness near the seed. Seed slightly spindle-shaped, or like a dog's tooth; underdeveloped. Of very good quality. [Tree bears heavily. Withstands hot winds.] Late in season.

'Panjore common'. Fruit is large, heart-shaped, deep-orange to pink; skin is rough, very thin, apt to split. Tree bears heavily and has the longest fruiting season-for an entire month beginning near the end of May. Six other varieties commonly grown there are: 'Rose-scented', 'Bhadwari', 'Seedless No. 1', 'Seedless No. 2', 'Dehra Dun', and 'Kalkattia'.

'No Mai Tsze' has been growing in Hawaii for over 40 years but has produced very few fruits. 'Pat Po Heung' (eight precious fragrances), erroneously called 'Pat Po Hung' (eight precious red), somewhat resembles 'No Mai Tsze' but is smaller; the skin is purplish-red, thin and pliable; the juice leaks when the skin is broken; the flesh is soft, juicy, sweet even when slightly unripe; the seed varies from medium to large. The tree is slow-growing and of weak, spreading habit; it bears well in Hawaii. Nevertheless, it is not commonly planted.

'Kaimana', or 'Poamoho', an open-pollinated seedling of 'Hak Ip', developed by Dr. R.A. Hamilton at the Poamoho Experiment Station of the University of Hawaii, was released in 1982. The fruit resembled 'Kwai Mi' but is twice as large, deep-red, of high quality, and the tree is a regular bearer.

'Brewster' is large, conical or wedge-shaped, red, with soft flesh, more acid than that of 'Kwai mi', and the seeds are very often fully formed and large. The leaflets are flat with slightly recurved margins and taper to a sharp point.

'Bengal'–In 1929, the U.S. Department of Agriculture received a small lychee plant, supposedly a seedling of 'Rose-scented', from Calcutta. It was planted at the Plant Introduction Station in Miami and began bearing in 1940. The fruits resembled 'Brewster' but were more elongated, were home in large clusters, and the flesh was firm, not leaking juice when peeled. All the fruits had fully developed seeds but smaller in proportion to flesh than those of 'Brewster'. The habit of the tree is more spreading than that of 'Brewster'; it has larger, more leathery, darker green leave's, and the bark is smoother and paler. The original tree and its air-layered progeny have shown no chlorosis on limestone in contrast to 'Brewster' trees growing nearby.

'Peerless', believed to be a seedling of 'Brewster', originated at the Royal Palm Nursery at Oneco; was transplanted to the T.R. Palmer Estate in Belleair where C.E. Ware noticed from 1936 to 1938 that it bore fruit of larger size, brighter color and higher percentage of abortive seed than 'Brewster'. In 1938, Ware air-layered and removed 200 branches, purchased the tree and moved it to his property in Clearwater. It resumed fruiting in 1940 and annual crops recorded to 1956 showed good productivity-averaging 383.4 lbs (174 kg) per year, and the rate of abortive seeds ranged from 62% to 85%. The 200 air-layers were planted out by Ware in 1942 and began bearing in 1946. Most of the fruits had fully developed seeds but the rate of abortive seeds increased year by year and in 1950 was 61% to 70%. The cultivar was named with the approval of the Florida Lychee Growers Association. Two seedling selections by Col. Grove, 'Yellow Red' and 'Late Globe', Prof. Groff believed to be natural hybrids of 'Brewster' ´ 'Mountain'.

'Wai Chi' is late in season (December), has small, round fruits, basically yellow overlaid with red; the seed is small and oval. The tree is very compact with upright branches, and prefers a cooler climate than that of coastal north Queensland where it does not fruit heavily. The leaflets are concave like those of 'Kwai Mi'.

Climate

Lychee thrives in areas that are not subject to heavy frost but cool and dry enough in the winter months to provide a period of  Heavy frosts will kill young trees but mature trees can withstand light frosts.

Heavy rain or fog during the flowering period is detrimental, as are hot, dry, strong winds which cause shedding of flowers, also splitting of the fruit skin. Splitting occurs, too, during spells of alternating rain and hot, dry periods, especially on the sunny side of the tree.

Soil

The lychee grows well on a wide range of soils. If the soil is deficient in lime, this must be added. The lychee attains maximum growth and productivity on deep alluvial loam but flourishes when it is put in an adequate hole and irrigated in dry seasons.

Though the lychee has a high water requirement, it cannot stand water-logging. The water table should be at least 4 to 6 ft  below the surface and the underground water should be moving inasmuch as stagnant water induces root rot. The lychee can stand occasionally brief flooding better than citrus. It will not thrive under saline conditions.

Propagation

Lychee seeds remain viable only 4 to 5 days, and seedling trees will not bear until they are 5 to 8, years old. For these reasons, seeds are planted mostly for selection and breeding purposes or for rootstock.

Attempts to grow the lychee from cuttings have been generally discouraging, though 80% success has been claimed with spring cuttings in full sun, under constant mist and given weekly liquid nutrients. Ground-layering has been practiced to some extent. Air-layering is the most popular means of propagation and has been practiced for ages. By their method, a branch of a chosen tree is girdled, allowed to callus for 1 to 2 days and then is enclosed in a ball of sticky mud mixed with chopped straw or dry leaves and wrapped with burlap. With frequent watering, roots develop in the mud and, in about 100 days, the branch is cut off, the ball of earth is increased to about 12 inch in width, and the air-layer is kept in a sheltered nursery for a little over a year, then gradually exposed to full sun before it is set out in the orchard. Some air-layers are planted in large clay pots and grown as ornamentals.

Wind protection:

Young trees benefit greatly by wind protection. This can be provided by placing stakes around each small tree and stretching cloth around them as a windscreen. In very windy locations, the entire plantation may be protected by trees planted as windbreaks but these should not be so close as to shade the lychees. The lychee tree is structurally highly wind-resistant, having withstood typhoons, but shelter may be needed to safeguard the crop. During dry, hot months, lychee trees of any age will benefit from overhead sprinkling; they are seriously retarded by water stress.

Fertilization:

Newly planted trees must be watered but not fertilized beyond the enrichment of the hole well in advance of planting.

Pruning: Ordinarily, the tree is not pruned after the judicious shaping of the young plant, because the clipping off of a branch tip with each cluster of fruits is sufficient to promote new growth for the next crop. Severe pruning of old trees may be done to increase fruit size and yield for at least a few years.

Harvesting

For home use or for local markets, lychees are harvested when fully colored; for shipment, when only partly colored. The final swelling of the fruit causes the protuberances on the skin to be less crowded and to slightly flatten out, thus an experienced picker will recognize the stage of full maturity. The fruits are rarely picked singly except for immediate eating out-of-hand, because the stem does not normally detach without breaking the skin and that causes the fruit to spoil quickly. The clusters are usually clipped with a portion of stem and a few leaves attached to prolong freshness. Individual fruits are later clipped from the cluster leaving a stub of stem attached. Harvesting may need to be done every 3 to 4 days over a period of 3-4 weeks. It is never done right after rain, as the wet fruit is very perishable.

Diseases

Few diseases have been reported from any lychee-growing locality. The glossy leaves are very resistant to fungi.

Lichens and algae commonly grow on the trunks and branches of lychee trees.

The main post-harvest problem is spoilage by the yeast-like organism, which is quick to attack warm, moist fruits. It is important to keep the fruits dry and cool, with good circulation of air. When conditions favor rotting, dusting with fungicide will be necessary.

Food Uses

Lychees are most relished fresh, out-of-hand. Peeled and pitted, they are commonly added to fruit cups and fruit salads. Lychees stuffed with cottage cheese are served as salad topped with dressing and pecans. Or the fruit may be stuffed with a blend of cream cheese and mayonnaise, or stuffed with pecan meats, and garnished with whipped cream. Sliced lychees, congealed in lime gelatin, are served on lettuce with whipped cream or mayonnaise. The fruits may be layered with pistachio ice cream and whipped cream in parfait glasses, as dessert. Halved lychees have been placed on top of ham during the last hour of baking, or grilled on top of steak. Pureed lychees are added to ice cream mix. Sherbet is made by extracting the juice from fresh, seeded lychees and adding it to a mixture of prepared plain gelatin, hot milk, light cream, sugar and a little lemon juice, and freezing.

Food Value Per 100 g of Edible Portion*       

Fresh    Dried

Calories    63-64    277

Moisture    81.9-84.83%    17.90-22.3%

Protein    0.68-1.0 g    2.90-3.8 g

Fat    0.3-0.58 g    0.20-1.2 g

Carbohydrates    13.31-16.4 g    70.7-77.5 g

Fiber    0.23-0.4 g    1.4 g

Ash    0.37-0.5 g    1.5-2.0 g

Calcium    8-10 mg    33 mg

Phosphorus    30-42 mg   

Iron    0.4 mg    1.7 mg

Sodium    3 mg    3 mg

Potassium    170 mg    1,100 mg

Thiamine    28 mcg   

Nicotinic Acid    0.4 mg   

Riboflavin    0.05 mg    0.05 mg

Ascorbic Acid    24-60 mg    42 mg

*According to analyses made in China, India and the Philippines.

Medicinal Uses: Ingested in moderate amounts, the lychee is said to relieve coughing and to have a beneficial effect on gastralgia, tumors and enlargements of the glands.



Morton, J. 1987. Lychee. p. 249–259. In: Fruits of warm climates. Julia F. Morton, Miami, FL.
  • admin @ 06:50 
  • (0)
  •    

7 Secrets of Building a Koi Pond

Are you thinking of building a koi fish pond? Keeping these magnificent fish in your garden can be great fun and it is not as difficult as you might think. With the right care koi can live for decades and some can become almost a meter long. Follow these tips to plan your pond properly so your koi will live long and happy life.


1 Depth is important


Depth of your pond is crucial. The minimum recommended depth is 4 feet, however it is much better to give your fish six or even 8 feet deep pond. This will ensure that your koi are protected from raccoons, cats and other animals who love a fish dinner. Deeper fish pond also helps to keep water cool in hot summer days


2 Make your pond as large as you can


Small ponds are not suitable for koi. Remember, with time koi can grow quite large and they will need a lot of room. Also there are so many color variations of koi, that with time you will probably want to add more fish to your pond. So it is better to create a large pond from the start than rebuild it later. About ten thousand gallons is a good size for a koi pond, bigger would be even better.


3 Use fish pond heater in colder months


Unlike tropical fish, koi don't suffer much from cold; however you should never let your pond freeze completely. Installing a proper pond heater will always keep an opening in the ice. Also keep in mind, that koi only grow when the water is warm, so with a heater your fish will grow faster


4 Plan some shade for your koi


When selecting a spot for your pond, make sure it is out of direct sunlight. Also keeping water plants like water lilies in your pond are a good idea - not only they add beauty to the overall design, but they also provide shade for the fish. However, you should avoid building your koi pond under trees. Cleaning a fish pond of fallen leaves is no fun.


5 Plan to install a bird net


There are many birds of prey that would love to steal your koi. Don't give them the opportunity; plan your pond location so it is possible to cover it with a net.


6 Keep insecticides away from your pond


When landscaping your pond keep in mind that you should not use any insecticides or herbicides near the water. Even a small amount of common garden poison can kill your beautiful fish.


7 Get proper equipment for your pond


Several accessories are absolutely essential for a healthy koi pond. Ideally you will have to invest into a water pump, filtration system, water aerator and an ultraviolet sterilizer. If the water in your pond is still, your fish might get sick and eventually die. Koi pond filtration systems are expensive, so as an alternative you can make your own homemade filters.


There is much more to   building a koi fish pond . Visit Koi Fish Ponds    for more information about installing and maintaining koi ponds.


Article Source: http://www.gardenepic.com


  • admin @ 17:22 
  • (0)
  •    

Modern Day Container Gardens

American visitors to the Old World are invariably impressed by the exuberant displays of container plants around homes, in gardens and parks, and in front of public buildings and places of business.


In Lisbon, with its narrow, winding streets, where there is hardly a trickle of sunlight, windowsills and tiny balconies are filled with potted plants. Often, they must compete with clothes hung out to dry. I recall one small balcony that contained numerous pot plants, several pieces of laundry, six song birds in cages, and three shouting green parrots attached to their perches by chains.


Throughout Portugal, containers range from tin cans, clay and decorated glazed pots at entranceways and in small patios, to large calstone urns and pots in elegant, formal gardens, like that of the Queluz Palace outside Lisbon. In the moister north, pot plants are seen less frequently than in the hot and dry south, which has a more typically Mediterranean climate.


The countless pot plants around fountains and pools in the Moorish gardens at the Alhambra and Generaliffe Palaces in Granada are unforgettable. At Generaliffe, they are arranged so precisely and symmetrically along the long, narrow canals that they are almost as diverting as the numberless fountains that leap and splash in these gardens where water in its myriad forms plays so important a part. Along the narrow streets of Seville and other Spanish cities, geraniums and climbing roses grow through the intricate lacework of little balconies. Patios, surrounded by high walls, are crammed with potted geraniums, stocks, lemons, oranges, boxwood, sweet bay, jasmines, and Swedish myrtle. Even more, steps are lined with pots of all sizes and descriptions and the tops of walls, also favorite places, resemble miniature gardens.


Italian and Greek Uses

The Italian garden would be incomplete without pot plants. In the terraced gardens of La Mortola in Ventimiglia and Borremeo Castle on Iseo Bello in Lake Maggiore, in the extensive Boboli Gardens in Florence, and in other villa gardens throughout Italy, handsomely designed hand-wrought clay pots are important aspects of the designs. Lemons and oranges, oleanders, gardenias, and geraniums are grown in them.


Greece, with its hot, dry summers, is equally a country of gardens and open courtyards of pot plants. In tin cans, whitewashed or painted yellow, pink, or blue to match the house, the Greeks grow their beloved carnations, stocks, gardenias, geraniums, jasmines, and particularly basil, the pungent Indian herb used for flavoring. When immigrants came to America earlier in the century, they brought with them the practice of growing basil and fragrant flowering plants in tins and other makeshift containers.


Through France and Scandinavia


The south of France, with its warm climate, follows the pattern of Portugal, Spain, Italy, and Greece. In the north, including Paris, pots, often of house plants, rest on windowsills and adorn courtyards. In formal chateaux and palace gardens, tubbed sweet bay, oleander, and orange and lemon trees are common, along with ornamental urns, introduced for architectural effect.

 

In Scandinavia, there are large plant containers in public squares and on broad sidewalks, in fact, wherever they do not interfere with pedestrian traffic. In front of City Hall in the heart of Copenhagen, great concrete containers with geraniums and other summer flowers are grouped among the benches where people sit in the sun.

 

In Britain


London, Dublin, and Edinburgh have window boxes and urns that decorate banks, department stores, public buildings, and offices. Azaleas and other spring flowers are followed by hydrangeas and geraniums in the summer and chrysanthemums in the autumn. Plant boxes are often placed on top of department store marquees. These are also a familiar sight in Paris.


In all these countries, with their centuries of experience, we can find ideas to adapt to our own climate, styles of architecture, and manner of gardening. The multitude of containers and plants offer many possibilities for adding architectural accent and introducing a distinctive kind of garden beauty.


  • admin @ 15:02 
  • (0)
  •    

Nip Hut Gardens Ebay Products




  • admin @ 05:26 
  • (0)
  •    

Easy Ways to Save Energy in the Home

The average American family will spend more than $2,000 on home utility bills this year, according to the American Council for an Energy-Efficient Economy.

 


"Energy savings is on everyone's mind," says Beau Parker, vice president of marketing at Hunter Fan Co. "With the inflation of gasoline and electricity prices, consumers are seeking energy-efficient measures to help control the rising energy costs." The Department of Energy estimates that as much as 45 percent of home energy usage is dedicated to heating and cooling.


Here are some ways to save on energy bills now:


* Use ceiling fans to supplement air conditioning and heating. Ceiling fans help lower winter heating costs when run in a clockwise, or updraft, direction. The hot air trapped at ceiling level is recirculated, allowing more even, comfortable heating while reducing winter bills by up to 10 percent.


* Clean or replace dirty furnace filters monthly. Dirty filters block airflow through heating and cooling systems, increasing costs and shortening the equipment's life span.


* Lower the thermostat on your water heater to a warm setting of 120 F. Almost 15 percent of average energy bills go toward heating water. Also, use an insulation blanket, which will hold heat inside the tank longer.


* Unplug or switch devices off when not in use, including cell phone chargers and computers. Nationally, the Alliance to Save Energy estimates that 5 percent of energy is used by such devices, costing consumers more than $8 billion annually.


To benefit from long-term efficiency, try these tips:


* Install a programmable thermostat to automatically control heating and air conditioning, allowing energy savings while sleeping or away from home. A thermostat adjusted 10 degrees for eight hours will save approximately 10 percent on utility bills. Hunter offers digital programmable thermostats that are Energy Star-compliant and pre-programmed to Energy Star standards.


* Get a professional home energy audit to thoroughly assess how much energy your home consumes and highlight problems that, when corrected, may save significant amounts of money and energy over time. Contact state or local energy offices for recommendations on qualified auditors.


  • admin @ 13:31 
  • (2)
  •    

Gardening Soil

by neil parnham



The perfect soil does not exist and most gardeners have to make do with whatever nature or the house builder has left them. The soil itself ultimately governs which plants will grow well and anyone who doubts this should try to grow rhododendrons on chalk or lime. This plant and an alkaline soil are quite incompatible. Soils in Britain vary enormously between heavy clays and light sands. A child can tell the different between muddy clods of clay and dry sandy grains and these physical differences matter to the garden.



Clay is made up of tiny particles so small that they cling together and will not easily allow even water to pass between them. They have the same effect on a spade or the root of a plant. Sand, on the other hand, is made of comparatively enormous grains. They are so large that water washes easily through them and incidentally drains away a lot of nutritional material. They are so loose that sand will pour off a spade and give little support to a root system.



There is a definition of the two extremes and the particle size ranges between them but the gardener can usually tell at a glance or a prod. Science can tell the gardener the chemical constituents of a soil in minute detail but all that most people know whether soil is acid or alkaline. Some plants show a marked preference for one or the other so a simple testing kid from the garden store or centre can save the gardener a lot of frustrated efforts.



Testing is simply a matter of mixing a sample of soil with a chemical to obtain a colour code reading. Acidity or alkalinity is usually expressed as the Ph number. Seven is neutral. Any number down from seven is increasingly acidic and any number above seven is progressively alkaline. Most plants like the soil to be Ph6.5 that is just on the acid side of neutral.



Your Garden Soil Needs Food



The gardener calls it compost. It can be almost any organic matter and, except in Fenland-type soil where the earth is made of half-rotted vegetation, it will always benefit the garden. Thrown out kitchen vegetables (not root vegetables), horse or farmyard manure, straw, hope, or even woollen waste, together with the obvious greenery from the garden, will rot down to form compost.



It is the cheapest way of keeping a healthy fertile soil. Compost heaps will differ in construction and contents but they all need air and water, If they are too dry, waterlogged or airless, they do not rot or heat up enough to destroy the seeds of weeds or crops and may encourage disease.



Two or three square bins about forty inches wide are useful size for the average garden. One full for spreading, another rotting and the third being filled is an ideal routine. If the bins are made of wood, half inch gaps between each spank will ensure an air supply and a solid or polythene cover will stop the compost getting too wet. As each layer of refuse is dropped on to the heap a sprinkling of nitro-chalk or commercially produced rotting agent will help bacteria to break down the vegetation.



A light dusting of lime should be applied every few layers to prevent acid build-up which can prevent the complete breakdown of vegetation. Quick decay is helped by moisture and warmth, April to October are the best months.



Garden Mulching & Liming



The garden can be improved and capping prevented by mulching or throwing a layer of loose organic material on the soil. Bulky organic matter like straw, peat, lawn mowings or even soft green hedge clipping, just scattered on the soil will prevent the surface becoming compacted, slow down evaporation by holding moisture, smother weeds before they grow and slowly rot into the soil.



It sounds almost too good to be true, but there are possible snags. As always in the garden a balance has to be kept and while increasing bacterial activity in a mulch on the surface, a gardener can be robbing soil below of nitrogen. So a quick acting nitrogen fertiliser added ten days to a fortnight after mulching will correct the condition.



Mulching may look untidy, particularly with straw, but the benefits are considerable and many gardeners feel that a mulch spread between rows of vegetables like peas and sprouts helps prevent their own feet trampling the top soil solid.



The last main problem of mulching is that when vegetable material breaks down it creates acids. These are not necessarily harmful but they do slow down plant growth by interacting with materials like calcium. Excessive acidity is corrected by adding lime to the soul in one of the following forms:



1 Quicklime as the name implies acts fast. It can often generate enough heat on reacting with damp soil to serve as an insecticide.



2 Hydrated lime works at almost the same speed as quicklime but it can be handled more pleasantly.



3 White chalk or finely ground limestone has to be used in greater quantities than quicklime to achieve the same results.



Written by DIY Conservatories



Article Source: Garden Epic Articles Owned by Nipa Hut Gardens and Gifts
  • admin @ 04:37 
  • (2)
  •    

Secrets Of Artificially Dwarfed Bonzai Trees

by Jimmy Cox



The majority of the dwarfed potted trees generally seen are developed from ordinary nursery stock or from somewhat dwarfed trees found in a natural habitat. The practice of artificial dwarfing might be more aptly described as "revolutionizing" normal growth. What, then, is this practice?



Let me first take some examples of the ordinary nursery stock, and tell about them. Three- to ten-year-old young trees of the following are suitable for "revolutionizing":



Evergreens: Japanese White Pine (Pinus parviflora), Japanese Larch (Larix kaempferi (L. leptolepis)), Hi-noki Cypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa), and such conifers as are grown in nurseries for ordinary garden purposes or for forest plantations.



Deciduous: Japanese Maple {Acer palmatum and varieties), Daphne odora. flowering Peach (Prunus persica varieties), Japanese flowering Apricot (Prunus mume varieties), Japanese flowering Quince (Chaenomeles lagenaria), garden varieties of Hall's flowering Crabapple (Malus halliana).



Such ornamental trees and shrubs have trunks and branches that are comparatively easy to bend. They are taken from nurseries in autumn, and potted. A small pot is preferred to accustom the plant to the smaller space for root development and to restrain the growth of foliage.



However, when selecting the pot, consider its depth; the shallower the pot, the better the result, but it should be of fairly generous width. When the trees are started on their way to dwarfing, they are generally planted in shallow containers, as they look better and seem to have a more aesthetic touch.



In late winter or early spring, possibly while drinking tea, you begin to fancy the shape of the tree when finished. The man experienced in training with wire changes ordinary little trees into different forms almost instantly, sometimes to a shape seen in naturally dwarfed trees.



The wiring specialist's way is about like this: in the autumn the tree should have been potted so that the trunk is inclined to slant. Then in spring, to shorten the trunk in height and lower the branches, a wire is fastened to the trunk near the surface of the soil in the pot, and again attached higher up so the trunk can be pulled downward, away from the direction of the slant.



It should be fastened at the desired bend with the wire. After the operation the little tree will have been considerably lowered, and then another wire is fastened at the forked part, the end of the wire coiling around the trunk; carefully wind the wire toward the tip, having an inch or more in intervals of the spiral. The branch is then ready to be shaped and fixed to the desired form.



The second upper branch is treated in the same way, then the third, and so on. After one or two years, in many cases, the trunk and branches should be settled in the desired positions, so the winding wires are no longer needed, and may be taken off. From year to year the tree is improved in form and foliage as the result of careful pinching of certain tip buds, shortening or removing undesired strong shoots, repeating the pinching often in a season according to the kind of tree and further winding the wire to change the form or improve it.



Gradually the artificial look lightens and the "made-up" tree becomes the natural-looking tree. The course of training for years is very fascinating to fanciers, novices and experts alike. It is not unusual in a day's stroll in the villages or towns in Japan, wherever you may be, to come across people who train dwarf trees -- they are a set of cheerful boasters.



Who Else Wants The Quick & Easy Way To Grow The Perfect Bonsai Plant Every Time? Click Here For A Free Online E-Book: http://www.bonsaiplant.org



Article Source: Garden Epic Articles

  • admin @ 04:16 
  • (0)
  •    

Lawn Care Advice - Easy Steps To Lawn Care Success

So, when you are wistfully looking out over next doors green and pleasant land, it's time to take some lawn care advice and find out just what you can do, easily, to get that verdant pasture you desire.



It's All In The Watering



Water is vital in getting a beautiful green lawn. These days, when temperatures are rising with the climatic effects that we are experiencing around the world, and rainfall is erratic, the best lawn care advice you can have is to get your watering just right.



If you get this right, you will find that you neither waste water, nor do you undersell your lawn either.



If you water early in the day or late, these are the right times. If you try it on in the heat of the day, you will waste water as much of it will evaporate off before it's had the chance to do good. And, what make matters worse, some grass types will scorch if watered in this way as well.



It's also to water in the right conditions for your lawn as well. the best lawn care advice would suggest that you water when the lawn needs it and not before.



Saturating the lawn can cause other problems as well as encouraging weeds to grow with a lawn that is under water for too long.



If you think about how well a lawn copes with the natural pattern of rainfall, you will start to appreciate how an irregular pattern of watering will be the best to develop good strong root systems (which like a little thirst!), without drowning the lawn and suffering other diseases.



Mow Your Lawn Carefully



Important lawn care advice is continued with the simple rules for mowing your lawn properly and in the best manner to encourage strong and healthy growth.



By ensuring that you mow in such a way as to cut at the higher end of the recommended grass height (as advised by your grass grower or other lawn care advisor - often found at your local garden center), you will increase the proportion of green surface area.



This will enable a strong plant. A bit of grass length is also good to hold back weeds that are trying their best to force their way through.



Taking proper care of your mower is also good lawn care advice. Make sure that your mower blades are sharp; a sharp blade will cut cleanly and prevent damage to your grass, which will also inhibit growth.



Take your blades to be sharpened by a professional each year. The small expense will be worth it as your summer progresses.



Thatch Control



Thatch is the material that comes from dead grass and other materials laying on the ground and inhibiting growth rather than decomposing.



Good lawn care advice means recommending that you do your best to fight thatch. This is more a project to be handled yearly rather than week by week.



Cutting grass at the recommended height for your type of grass will help reduce thatch, as will aeration of your lawn in the spring and fall.



By following this and other good lawn care advice, you'll be able to have a lush lawn that you can be proud of.



Article Directory: http://www.gardenepic.com/ and http://www.creatememoney.com



(c) 2007 Lawn Care Guidelines. All you need to know to make the right decisions to get a great looking lawn. There's all the information you could ask for, at Martin Haworth's website, www.LawnCareGuidelines.com
  • admin @ 07:01 
  • (2)
  •    

Two Ways to Stay Healthy Throughout Your Life

Worry has a lot of power over your health. Unfortunately, it's a lot easier to say, "don't worry" than it is to actually follow the advice. That's because a lot of people try to avoid worry without putting anything in its place. We discussed last week how dependence on the Lord is the first place to start. And doing so gives us two ways to refocus our attention -- and radically change our health in the process.



The Scriptures give us two ways to keep our focus off of worry and onto far more Godly ways of thinking. Both of these concepts bind up much of what God calls us to do. And it just so happens that they can keep us far healthier until the day the Lord calls us home.



The two ways to stay healthy are simply discipline and purpose. You've undoubtedly heard the verse, "Where there is no vision, the people perish" (Prov. 29:18). That verse is obviously talking about purpose. It's referring to a plan for the future. And it also encompasses hope -- hope that there's something better coming down the road.



But there's more to this verse than just purpose or vision. The rest of the verse reads: "but he that keepeth the law, happy is he." This part of the verse speaks to discipline. Its focus is on our living life according to God's Word. If you read Paul's description (in Galatians and elsewhere) of how he lived as a Pharisee, you see the description of a very disciplined man.



Even after Paul realized that his rigorous works had no power to save him, and came to Christ through faith, he remained a very disciplined man. Moreover, he called us to be disciplined, as well. In 1 Thessalonians 4:4, Paul says, "each one of you (should) know how to control his own body in holiness and honor."



So how does all of this help your health?



If worry and stress break your health down, purpose and discipline help to build it up.



If you read a lot of the studies done on what brings good health, you'll see that many of them have to do with these principles. You'll see that exercise, eating right, not smoking, and living in moderation with regard to how much you eat and drink all are part of discipline. Even the disciplines of prayer, meditation, and fasting are great for your health.



There are also studies that show how people with hope, purpose, and vision will stay healthier. People who have these characteristics have fewer sick days away from work. They also have less depression and fewer chemical dependencies. And, frankly, they have a reason to live.



How many times have you seen people die shortly after they retire? They simply weren't able to find any purpose beyond their work. But some people thrive after they retire because they find a new sense of purpose that gives them a reason to live.



So if you're looking for great health, the place to start is not in a pill bottle. Start with your mind. Is your mind solely dedicated to Christ? Is your mind disciplined? Have you thought of your purpose? If you can find someone with a need, it's easy to find purpose.



And a great gift you can give your children is to teach them discipline and purpose while they're young. It's a great way to help them live a healthy, long life.


Article Directory http://www.gardenepic.com owned and operated by Nipa Hut Gardens and Gifts


Steve Kroening writes for Success magazine and also publishes Wisdom's Edge. You can get Biblical tips on health, finance, relationships, parenting, and success, delivered to your email inbox every week. Simply visit http://www.wisdomsedge.com and sign up for this free e-zine.


  • admin @ 16:48 
  • (0)
  •    

Gardens in Containers in the Modern Day

By: Jimmy Cox


American visitors to the Old World are invariably impressed by the exuberant displays of container plants around homes, in gardens and parks, and in front of public buildings and places of business.


In Lisbon, with its narrow, winding streets, where there is hardly a trickle of sunlight, windowsills and tiny balconies are filled with potted plants. Often, they must compete with clothes hung out to dry. I recall one small balcony that contained numerous pot plants, several pieces of laundry, six song birds in cages, and three shouting green parrots attached to their perches by chains.


Throughout Portugal, containers range from tin cans, clay and decorated glazed pots at entranceways and in small patios, to large calstone urns and pots in elegant, formal gardens, like that of the Queluz Palace outside Lisbon. In the moister north, pot plants are seen less frequently than in the hot and dry south, which has a more typically Mediterranean climate.


The countless pot plants around fountains and pools in the Moorish gardens at the Alhambra and Generaliffe Palaces in Granada are unforgettable. At Generaliffe, they are arranged so precisely and symmetrically along the long, narrow canals that they are almost as diverting as the numberless fountains that leap and splash in these gardens where water in its myriad forms plays so important a part. Along the narrow streets of Seville and other Spanish cities, geraniums and climbing roses grow through the intricate lacework of little balconies. Patios, surrounded by high walls, are crammed with potted geraniums, stocks, lemons, oranges, boxwood, sweet bay, jasmines, and Swedish myrtle. Even more, steps are lined with pots of all sizes and descriptions and the tops of walls, also favorite places, resemble miniature gardens.


Italian and Greek Uses

The Italian garden would be incomplete without pot plants. In the terraced gardens of La Mortola in Ventimiglia and Borremeo Castle on Iseo Bello in Lake Maggiore, in the extensive Boboli Gardens in Florence, and in other villa gardens throughout Italy, handsomely designed hand-wrought clay pots are important aspects of the designs. Lemons and oranges, oleanders, gardenias, and geraniums are grown in them.


Greece, with its hot, dry summers, is equally a country of gardens and open courtyards of pot plants. In tin cans, whitewashed or painted yellow, pink, or blue to match the house, the Greeks grow their beloved carnations, stocks, gardenias, geraniums, jasmines, and particularly basil, the pungent Indian herb used for flavoring. When immigrants came to America earlier in the century, they brought with them the practice of growing basil and fragrant flowering plants in tins and other makeshift containers.


Through France and Scandinavia


The south of France, with its warm climate, follows the pattern of Portugal, Spain, Italy, and Greece. In the north, including Paris, pots, often of house plants, rest on windowsills and adorn courtyards. In formal chateaux and palace gardens, tubbed sweet bay, oleander, and orange and lemon trees are common, along with ornamental urns, introduced for architectural effect.


In Scandinavia, there are large plant containers in public squares and on broad sidewalks, in fact, wherever they do not interfere with pedestrian traffic. In front of City Hall in the heart of Copenhagen, great concrete containers with geraniums and other summer flowers are grouped among the benches where people sit in the sun.


In Britain


London, Dublin, and Edinburgh have window boxes and urns that decorate banks, department stores, public buildings, and offices. Azaleas and other spring flowers are followed by hydrangeas and geraniums in the summer and chrysanthemums in the autumn. Plant boxes are often placed on top of department store marquees. These are also a familiar sight in Paris.


In all these countries, with their centuries of experience, we can find ideas to adapt to our own climate, styles of architecture, and manner of gardening. The multitude of containers and plants offer many possibilities for adding architectural accent and introducing a distinctive kind of garden beauty.


Article Directory: http://www.gardenepic.com/




Here's How To Jazz Up Your With Everyday Garden Products! Click here for FREE online ebook! www.gardenproduct.org/


  • admin @ 17:30 
  • (0)
  •    

UN Appeals For More Trees

By: Roger Munns



The UN has launched a campaign to plant a billion new trees, which is being welcomed by environmentalists, but with a warning by some that in certain regions it could do more harm than good.



While the campaign claims that each tree uses up 26 pounds of co2 emissions and in return produces enough oxygen for a family of four, planting the right trees is important to help the world improve her ecological and environment balance.



In areas that historically have suffered from a lack of rain, and in areas where global warming could potentially produce deserts, new trees that use a lot of water could have a serious affect on their biodiversity.



Eucalyptus trees can consume two thousand litres of water a day, and planting new ones in Africa would be a catalyst to disaster, and local campaigners for planting trees are urged to consider their area needs and decide carefully before deciding on which type of tree to plant.



As well as individuals planting a tree, it is hoped that businesses will do the same and encourage employees to do the same, with government and civil servants also being asked to take active participation to reach the target of a billion trees by the end of this year.



The patron of the campaign is Prince Albert of Monaco. Prince Albert has been campaigning for the environment since becoming Monaco's Sovereign two years ago, and one of his first acts was to sign the Kyoto Protocol. Previously, along with Australia and the USA, Monaco was one of a handful of countries not to ratify the treaty.



Prince Albert's father, Prince Rainier, was Europe's longest reigning Monarch until his death in April 2005. Known affectionately as the 'builder prince' he transformed Monaco into the world's favourite tax haven and ensured the Monaco Grand Prix became one of the best known annual sporting events. The Principality Albert succeeded to was a country known throughout the world for money and glamour, and the Monte Carlo casino only added to its legendary status.



Albert has continued in his father's footsteps with a plan to develop an island off Monte Carlo, and like his father with the reclaimed land in Fontvieille the map of Monaco will change again.



In keeping with his stance on the environment, it is thought that a successful bid to build the island will need to be seen to be environmentally friendly, with the possibility of lower rise buildings than some parts of Monaco have endured to create more living space.



Monte Carlo has long been associated with glamour, heightened throughout the world in 1956 when Prince Albert's father married his mother, US actress Grace Kelly.



Speculation was rife earlier this year that Prince Albert would be announcing his own engagement to South African swimmer Charlene Wittstock.



'Things have gone quiet recently on the Charlene front', comment a Monaco travel guide, 'Monaco is all about glitz and glamour and perhaps a surprise announcement will be made soon. But it's possible that Albert is more interested in environmental affairs than affairs of the heart'.



Monaco has been making the news recently as Monte Carlo real estate prices have escalated, and are on a level with London and New York.



Even the cheapest studios are edging towards the million Euro level according to Monaco property specialists.



'Increasing taxes elsewhere in Europe, especially in the UK, have seen inquiries increase significantly over the last twelve months,' they say, 'and it's not the weather in Monte Carlo that's drawing buyers, but the income tax free status of being a resident, and the security that goes with living in Monaco. There's one policeman for every one hundred residents and has to be the safest country to live in Europe'.


Article Directory: http://www.gardenepic.com/


For more information about Monaco including the Columbus Hotel Monaco and Prince Albert of Monaco visit YourMonaco.com


  • admin @ 15:07 
  • (0)
  •    

If You Want Roses That Smell Great These Are Some You Will Want To Consider

By: Gregg Hall

Roses have been appreciated for generations for their beauty but that isn't their primary attraction. Most are drawn to roses for their incredibly strong aroma which is the reason women love them so much. Nothing says I love you like a dozen roses and they will definitely give you huge brownie points. All women want to be treated as if they are very special and the gift of roses is something that all women love.



So now I have you thinking about giving your lady a rose or even a dozen roses, now you will probably want to know what the best smelling roses are. There is an association known as the All American Rose Selection that is responsible for choosing the best roses annually in the United States. The AARS has been judging roses for decades in a number of different categories as well as on diverse criteria. The Most Fabulous Smell is one of the most exciting and well liked categories and they always pick a winner.



We have a copy of the latest list from the AARS but let's also look at some of the varieties of roses. One of the more popular types of rose is the Climbing Rose. These roses are the ones that you see growing up fences and trellises and are also found growing wild in many places in the United States. Hybrid Tea Roses are roses that cover many different varieties of roses which are created through genetic mutations and blending of different types of roses. These are among the most sought after of all roses. The Floribunda Rose features blooms with usually more than five that grow in clusters on the stem of the plant.



Going back to the 1970s, the rose known as the Double Delight won the award for smell and is suited for growing in the climates zones of 5-7. This rose is from the Hybrid Tea category and has white petals with a pale pink center and features a spicy sweet smell. The Elle Rose which one the best aroma award in 2005 has a fruity smell with light pink petals and large blooms of four inches or more. This rose is best suited in the 7-10 climate zones.



If you are into very strong scents you may want to consider the Memorial Day Rose which is a Hybrid Tea rose and is good in hot climates in the 7-10 zones. This rose one the award in 2004 and has a very strong damask rose fragrance that can produce an aroma that fills the room with only a handful of petals. The first climbing rose to win since 1977 is the 4th of July rose which won the best aroma award in 1999 and is best grown in the 5-9 climate zones. This beautiful rose spans over 14 feet in width in many cases. This rose comes in red and white petals.


Article Directory: http://www.gardenepic.com/ Owned and Operated by Nipa Hut Gardens and Gifts http://www.nipahutgardens.com


Gregg Hall is an author living in Navarre Beach, Florida. Find more about aromatic roses as well as personal rose gifts at www.personalroses.com


  • admin @ 04:21 
  • (0)
  •    

The Sweet and Healthy Taste of Sampalok – Filipino Tamarind

 The Sampalok (Tamarind), a slow-growing, long-lived, massive tree reaches, under favorable conditions, a height of 80 or even 100 ft (24-30 m), and may attain a spread of 40 ft (12 m) and a trunk circumference of 25 ft (7.5 m).


This massive tree is highly wind-resistant, with strong, supple branches, gracefully drooping at the ends, and has dark-gray, rough, fissured bark.



The mass of bright-green, fine, feathery foliage is composed of pinnate leaves, 3 to 6 in (7.5-15 cm) in length, each having 10 to 20 pairs of oblong leaflets 1/2 to 1 in (1.25-2.5 cm) long and 1/5 to 1/4 in (5-6 mm) wide, which fold at night.



The leaves are normally evergreen but may be shed briefly in very dry areas during the hot season. Inconspicuous, inch-wide flowers, borne in small racemes, are 5-petalled (2 reduced to bristles), yellow with orange or red streaks.



The flower buds are distinctly pink due to the outer color of the 4 sepals which are shed when the flower opens.


The fruits, flattish, beanlike, irregularly curved and bulged pods, are borne in great abundance along the new branches and usually vary from 2 to 7 in long and from 3/4 to 1 1/4 in (2-3.2 cm) in diameter.


Exceptionally large Sampaloks have been found on individual trees. The pods may be cinnamon-brown or grayish-brown externally and, at first, are tender-skinned with green, highly acid flesh and soft, whitish, under-developed seeds. As they mature, the pods fill out somewhat and the juicy, acidulous pulp turns brown or reddish-brown. Thereafter, the skin becomes a brittle, easily-cracked shell and the pulp dehydrates naturally to a sticky paste enclosed by a few coarse strands of fiber extending lengthwise from the stalk.


The 1 to 12 fully formed seeds are hard, glossy-brown, squarish in form, 1/8 to 1/2 in (1.1-1.25 cm) in diameter, and each is enclosed in a parchment like membrane.


Some Middle Eastern countries the juice is prepared as a drink by infusing the Sampalok pulp.  It is also prepared as a paste, sauce and candy.  In India it is an Ayuvedic herb medicine.


Sampalok is actually native of Africa but it has migrated to most tropical countries. It is infamas in India especially in the south and all over the Asian countries such as the Philippines.  This fruit was a supplement for the diet of sailors for its acid and sugar content.  The pulp contains tartaric and other acids as well as sugard that break up into starches and pectrin. 


Here are some medical uses by other countries. *Use at your own risk, I am not a medical doctor.



1. Curative properties: - The whole tree has medicinal virtues. Its leaves are cooling, while the bark is  caustic, a tonic and reduces fever. The fruit pulp is digestive, anti flatulent, cooling, laxative and antiseptic. Its seeds are also have an effect upon tissue which is severe rigidly.


2. Fever: - The pulp of Sampalok fruit is useful in treating fevers. Boil the pulp with the addition of a few dates, cloves, sugar, cardamom and a little camphor is effective in fevers.


3. Common cold: - Sampalok soup It is prepared by boiling a very dilute Sampalok water after seasoning a teaspoon of crushed black pepper in a pan. As one takes it, the nose and eyes, begin to water and the nasal blockage will be cleared.


4. Digestive disorders: - pulp of ripe Sampalok fruit is beneficial is the treatment of vomiting, flatulence and indigestion. It is also useful in constipation. Part of the pulp is  prepared by softening it in water is particularly useful for loss of appetite and lack of inclination for food intake.



5. Dysentery: - powdered seeds of Sampalok taken in doses with an equal quantity of cumin and sugar twice or thrice a day, are also useful.



6. Burns: - the tender leaves of Sampalok tree are very useful in treating burns. The leaves are put into a pot, covered and slowly heated over the fire. The burnt leaves are finely powdered and sieved to remove any gritty particles. This is mixed in sesame oil and applied over the burnt part. The burn gets healed with in days. And it also helps to grow healthy, normal skin. The oil keeps the affected part well protected against moisture and entry of harmful germs.



7. Sore throat: - gargling the mouth with Sampalok water is beneficial in curing sore throat. The potion for gargling be prepared by boiling Sampalok in water. Sampalok pulp is widely used in culinary preparations particularly, in the Philippines.



Superstitions



There are many superstitions related to this tree because of its age in other countries.  In the Philippines you don’t eat sour Sampalok during the even or you will be plagued with nightmares.



There is also a superstition that it is bad to sleep or to tie animals beneath a Sampalok tree, but this is probably due to the harmful affect the leaves have on fabrics in damp weather. 



In Africa some tribes believe this tree to be sacred.



Sampalok Candy


Ingredients



2 cup water

1 1/2 cup sugar

1 pinch salt

1 cup Pealed Brown (Mature) Sampalok



Instructions



Heat 2 cups of water in a small saucepan to simmering, and add one and half

cups of sugar slowly dissolving it, then simmering to thicken it to a

smooth syrup. Add pinch of salt.   Set aside to cool.



Shell and clean the Sampalok, and then leave them to soak in the sugar

syrup for several hours before putting on a rack to dry. (Be careful some of the Sampalok has a hard ‘Stone’ in them…)


Sit back and enjoy your exotic Tropical Candy that you have grown yourself.


 


  • admin @ 17:05 
  • (0)
  •    

How Passionate is Passion Fruit.

Passiflora edulis is the scientific name.


Common names include, Passion Fruit, Granadilla, Purple Granadilla, Yellow Passion Fruit


Some of the Related Species: Fragrant Granadilla (Passiflora alata), Red Granadilla (P. coccinea), Maypop (P. incarnata), Yellow Granadilla (P. Laurifolia), Sweet Granadilla (P. ligularis), Sweet Calabash (P. maliformis), Banana Passion Fruit (P. mollissima), Giant Granadilla (P. quadrangularis).


South America seems to be the starting place of the purple/yellow passion fruit.  Yellow it seems is from unknown origin or from early documentation the Amazon region of Brazil.  It is also said that it is a hybrid of two other passion fruits. In either case the passion fruit is a favorite of many gardeners and what most people do not realize is the health benefits from this beautiful vine and fruit.


The passion fruit, in general, prefer subtropical and frost free environments.  In saying this, the vines seem to take upper 20’s (F) with no serious damage.  The leaves will fall off, but as soon as the temps get back to normal they start up, it seems, more vigorous then before.  Heavy mulching of the roots is the requirement for this to occur.  With hot summer heat the plant also does not thrive, it will survive but the growth seems to go dormant.  Yellow passion seems to be more tolerant of both the cold and the heat.  It is usually a good idea to protect these fruits from wind and if local conditions are not good for rainfall, to water at least weekly.  These plants also seem to perform well indoors.


They are a vigorous climber.  They cling to anything they can grab.  They grow quickly and 15 – 20 feet per year once established.  They should have strong support.  Their life cycle seems to be short in 5-7 years, but new plants can be planted and fruit can happen the same year.


The leaves are evergreen and alternate, 3 lobed leaves when mature.  They start of as a single lobed leaf when young and when they reach a height of 2-3 feet the 3 lobed leaves start to appear.  They are large leaves of 3 to 8 inches in length and have a deep green appearance with a glossy look.  Dull and pale underneath.  They have many tendrils to hold onto anything they touch.


They have a single fragrant flower between 2-3 inches wide.   Purple passion fruits are self pollinating and do not require insects, however the yellow is dependant on bees and ants for fruit.  This should be kept in mind when growing indoors.  Yellow passion fruit would need to be pollinated by hand, but many do this with outdoor plants as well to guarantee fruit.


The fruit is 1-3 inches wide and has a touch outer coating that is smooth and waxy.  The name of the plant is the color of the fruit not the flower.  Inside the fruit are hundreds of seeds that are edible along with ample juice.  The flavor is unique and can be added to other drinks if desired.  Usually the fruit will begin in 1-2 years, sometimes 3.  Ripening occurs 70-80 days after pollination.


The plant prefers full sun except for very hot areas.  With hot areas partial sun is preferred.  The vine can grow rampant, so plant next to a fence or strong trellis.  You can also train the plant on an attractive arbor.


The plant will take many soils with the exception of clay soils, the plant prefers well drained soil with a pH of 6.5 to 7.5, and care should be taken to provide soil that is not too acidy.  Lime should be used for these areas.  They have shallow roots so mulching is a benefit.


To keep the plant in check and esthetically appeasing you should prune to keep them in control.  Prune early spring or after the harvest.  Remove weak growth and cut back vigorous grown by 1 third.


Wait until the fruit drops to the ground before using them, to pick it prematurely will result in better juice.  The fruit is sweetest when slightly shriveled.  The juice freezes well.


Here are some of the cultivators


Purple form


Black Knight


Developed in Massachusetts for pot culture by Patrick Worley. Fragrant, dark purple-black fruit, the size and shape of large egg. Flavor excellent. Vigorous, compact vine, self-fertile, very fruitful. Handsome glossy foliage. Excellent for containers.


Edgehill


Originated in Vista, Calif. Similar to Black Knight, but more vigorous, larger growing and with larger purple fruit. One of the best outdoor cultivars for Southern California.


Frederick


Originated in Lincoln Acres, Calif. by Patrick Worley. Kahuna X Brazilian Golden. Large, nearly oval fruit, greenish-purple with reddish cast. Slightly tart flavor. Good for eating out of hand, excellent for juicing. Extremely vigorous, self-fruitful vine. Very productive, more compact than P. edulis flavicarpa.


Kahuna


Very large, medium purple fruit. Sweet, subacid flavor. Good for juicing. Vigorous, productive self-fertile vine. Produces over a long season. Large, attractive foliage.


Paul Ecke


Originated in Encinitas, Calif. Medium-sized purple fruit of very good quality. Suitable for juicing and eating out of hand. Compact, very productive vine.


Purple Giant


Very large fruit, dark purple when mature.


Red Rover


Originated in Lincoln Acres, Calif. by Patrick Worley. Kahuna X Brazilian Golden. Medium to large, roundish fruit. Rind an attractive clear red color. Sweet, notably rich flavor with tart overtones,. Good for eating out of hand or juicing. Vine very vigorous, compact and self-fertile.


Yellow form


Brazilian Golden


Large, golden-yellow fruits, larger than standard forms. Flavor somewhat tart. Extremely vigorous vine, requiring cross-pollination. Extra large, fragrant flowers, white with a dark center, blooming during mid-summer. Produces one large crop beginning in late August or early September.


Golden Giant


A large yellow-fruited cultivar that originated in Australia.


The health benefits from these fruits are outstanding.  They are rich in vitamin C and a good source of vitamin A, iron and potassium.  If eaten with the seeds it is an excellent source of dietary fibber.


The fruit has somniferous properties and if taken before going to bed they will help to relax you and give you a nice sleep.  They also have a febrifugal and soporific properties.


An official press release in 2002 from Ecuador states**




  1. Passion fruit juice inhibits cancer cell growth in two types of cancer cells in culture.* While work continues in this area, the phytochemicals in passion fruit juice are thought to decrease cancer cell growth while at the same time, increase cancer cell death.


  2. The phenolic profile of passion fruit consists of phenolic acids and flavonoids. Passion fruit juice is also rich in carotenoids. This analytical information was not known prior to this research. This information is useful to predict health benefits and understand effects of processing on those health benefits. The potential for health benefits related to protecting the heart and preventing cancer from phenolics and other phytochemicals is great.


  3. The phenolic profile of passion fruit is promising for its anti-microbial activity thus perhaps leading to a way to preserve foods by using passion fruit. Perhaps future research will show it will inhibit the bacteria responsible for ulcers (helicobacter pylori).* Preliminary data shows that passion fruit juice inhibits the growth of e.coli.*


  4. Passion fruit juice is a good source of antioxidants, both that are water soluble (vitamin c) and those that are fat soluble (carotenoids, phenolics, flavonoids).*


  5. Pasteurization of passion fruit juice has no effect on stability of color or the antioxidant capacity. This is ideal for products that are required to be pasteurized.


  6. Passion fruit is high in carbohydrates, simple sugars that are rapidly available during athletic performance.


  7. Passion fruit contains plant sterols. Plant sterols are compounds that have been suggested to help lower cholesterol.


  8. One glass of passion fruit juice equals 50% of the day's vitamin C requirement. This is equal to grapefruit and higher than mango, pineapple, lemon and orange.


  9. One glass of passion fruit juice provides about 60% of the daily value for vitamin A, mostly because of the carotene content.


  10. Passion fruit is a significant source of potassium. It contains more potassium than an orange. One glass of passion fruit juice meets 40% of the suggested daily intake.



*more work continues in these findings.




**EPPA, The Ecuadorian Passion Fruit Processor's Association




  • admin @ 08:51 
  • (0)
  •    

The Miracle Tree - The Malungguy Tree

What makes this tree a miracle tree? The first time I heard about this plant I was fascinated. Since my wife is Filipino, she wanted one for the yard, since it was a nice looking tree I did not mind. Everyone kept asking about the tree and its unique shape, pods and look, I started to look further into its history and medicinal touts. This tree is a slender, deciduous tree about 20-30 feet tall. If left un-pruned it grows tall and slender, with drooping branches. The branches themselves are brittle with a cork looking bark. The leaves tend to be pale green, compound, tip innate leaves about 3-5 inches long. They have fragrant flowers that are an off white color that are borne in sprays. They lead to pods that are 3-10 inches with 20 or more seeds inside. The seeds have a papery look that could be thought of as wings. The trunk is thick. Here in Florida they fruit year round. We cut ours back to be bushy instead of tall so we can reach the fruit. They grow best in subtropical and tropical conditions; however they can be grown in pots for colder climates and brought in during cold weather. It seems to thrive in almost any soil conditions. 



It seems that every part of this tree is used in some way for food or medicinal value. The seeds are eaten like peanuts or cooked with oil and garlic. The root has the taste of horseradish, which leads to the name Horseradish Tree, in the USA. The leaves are so rich in potassium a small handful gives you more then a banana, People also eat them in salads, curries and as seasoning. They leaves also serve as cleaning items when pounded into a paste. The wood can be used as a blue dye. Often these trees are planted as a living fence for livestock. Folklore has these trees planted on graves to keep away hyenas and the branches used as charms against witchcraft.



Part of Plant - Medicinal Use



Flowers - Tumors



Leaves - Poultice to sores



Roots - Dropsy, tonic for body and lungs, stimulant in paralytic afflictions, epilepsy and hysteria.



Seeds - Abdominal Tumors



Bark - Promotes digestion, antiscorbic, used for diarrhea



Oil - Dangerous if taken internally, but applied to skin for diseases.



Vitamin Content - Protein 42%, Calcium 125%, Magnesium 61%, Potassium 41%, Iron 71%, Vitamin A 272%, Vitamin C 22%

  • admin @ 10:44 
  • (0)
  •    

The Amazing Noni Plant – Morinda citrifolia






With all the hype and talk about this plant the past few months I thought I would address some of the myths and facts about this plant. Regardless if you believe this is a cure all fruit or a hoax, the plant and fruit itself is amazing.



Some of the basic common names for this fruit are: noni fruit, Indian mulberry, Morinda, hog apple, meng koedoe, mora de la India, ruibarbo caribe, wild pine



The Scientific or Medical name is: Morinda citrifolia









We are also selling this plant


  • admin @ 15:03 
  • (0)
  •    

Growing Tropical Plants in Non-Tropical Regions


Introduction


Tropical Paradise.  We often see commercials of Tropical Vacations and dream of better days sitting under the sun with a drink in our hands.  What is it about the tropics we so enduring?  What lures us to these places?  In colder climates during the winter months plants have acclimated to the climate.  They can take freezing temperatures and months of snow and ice.  However tropical plants are not capable of surviving these climates.  But we still long for that Tropical fruit we buy in the store for outrageous prices.  What if we could go over to a tropical tree, select a ripe fruit and eat it right then and there, while outside a blizzard is taking place?  Our own tropical paradise, right inside out own home.  Many tropical plants will grow with the right care and conditions in areas that normally would not permit them.  These same plants that grow in abundance in Asia, South America, Africa, can grow right in your own living room, ready to pluck the ripe, sweet fruit grown specifically by you.




Potting


There are many different types of pots available and each has its benefits and drawbacks.  There is plastic with can heat up or freeze quickly, Metal, same as plastic,






Clay and wood dry quicker, ceramic that can be heavy and many others that you can buy at local garden centers.  For the most part all can be used quite successfully with tropical plants.  Choose one based on your own preferences.






These pots should have holes in the bottom for adequate drainage.  When you buy your pot, and before you put in soil, cover these holes with a mesh of some sort to help retain the soil, it is also good to put down an inch or two of gravel to insure good drainage.  With tropical plants drainage is essential to healthy plants.






Potting soil from the local garden center will suffice; however a much better solution would be 1 part Perlite or Vermiculite, 1 part course sand, and 1 part Peat.  This gives good drainage as well as sufficient nutrients.  Make sure your soil is not packed down heavy to allow good drainage but not excessive drainage.




Remove your plant from its original container; look carefully at the root system.  It they are heavily packed in and there is more root then dirt, we want to prune these roots before we plant.  Take some of these roots and loosen them up and then carefully clip the ends to stimulate the plant to root more in its new container.  If pruning is not needed, then just loosen the root ball before planting.




Place the plant in the new container making sure you have filled it halve way with the new planting material.  You want to make sure that when you fill the rest of the container with soil, the soil line is the same as the original plant when you pulled it out.  The soil like should be about 1-4 inches below the rim of the pot when you are all finished.




Important key:  Make sure your fully grown plant will be proportional to your pot.  Don’t put an 8 foot tall tree in a 10 inch pot.  Allow the roots to be able to grow, the larger the pot the more fruit it will bear.           




Light




Tropical plants usually require lots of sunlight, anywhere you can place them to receive full sunlight is beneficial to them.  Search on the Internet for your species to find out their light requirements.  Some tropicals do well in partial shade however most need to receive the maximum sunlight available.           




Tropical plants, when you receive them are most likely used to full sunlight, when you are going to bring them indoors, or for winter times, when bringing them indoors, you must acclimate them to your indoor area.  Make sure to put them near a good light source and if possible add additional light




Water




Tropical plants are used to lots of water, however they are also used to well drained soil, so their water requirements are different for potted plants.  These dependencies are based on size of the pot, size of the plant, type of plant, temperature where you keep the plant, the humidity and the type of soil you have.  You are usually safe to water, when the upper surface of the soil is dry before you water your plant.  Slowly fill the container watching for runoff at the bottom holes.  Remember that wood or clay pots dry faster, making watering more frequent, and cooler weather slows down the growth of the plant, thus reducing the need to water as much.




Temperature




This is probably the key ingredient to successful tropical plant keeping.  NO FREEZING WEATHER.  Tropical plants cannot take cold temperatures, so you will need to find a way to bring these indoors.  Cold temperatures will lead to root damage, and leave damage.  Again it depends on the species of tropical plant you have to the extent it can take cold weather.  Some plants you can just cover overnight and then remove each morning, others will need to be brought indoors.  If you bring them indoors make sure you keep them away from drafts from doors or windows to freeze, and out of the heating vent areas so not to dry out too fast.     




Fertilizer




Too much fertilizer is very bad for tropical plants.  The best type of fertilizer to use are water soluble types, any local garden center can help you pick out a good fertilizer that will meet the plants requirements.  Read the directions completely.  After spending good money on a beautiful tropical plant, you would hate to kill it by over fertilizing it.  Usually with a tropical plant the mature foliage will show deep green indicating that you are fertilizing on the correct scale.  Make sure your fertilizer has a complete balanced diet of Nitrogen,   Phosphorus, Potassium, and Lesser amounts of Magnesium, Iron, Manganese, Zinc, Copper, again Read the label.




Pruning




With most container tropical plants little or no pruning is needed.  However if the plant becomes “leggy” due to poor light conditions then cut it back greatly to force it to bush out.  If the top becomes too large for the root structure, again a large pruning spree is needed.  Also when you start to get leaf shed and twig die back this is an indication that the root structure is not large enough for the top foliage and pruning is needed




Fruitfulness




Will I get fruit?  This is the question we all ask.  Is it worth the time and effort?  Ask anyone that has a fruit tree planted in a pot, as they pick tropical fruit on a blizzard day of 10 below zero, and they will always tell you “Yes!”  For the most part container tropic plants are dependent on the light source and size of the pot to how much fruit they will have.  Most fruit trees will fruit in pots as long as we keep all of the requirements alive in our head.  The larger the tree the larger the pot that is needed.  Fruit will bear proportional to the size of the pot and plant.  Please keep in mind that some fruit will need a presence of another cultivator to be able to fruit.  Again check the specifics of your plant before you decide to buy it.




Copyright Dr. Peter T. Dixon D.B.S.  




Our Ebay Store




Our Bid-Alot Store





  • admin @ 13:47 
  • (1)
  •    

<< May 2013 >>
Sun Mon Tue Wed Thu Fri Sat
  1 2 3 4
5 6 7 8 9 10 11
12 13 14 15 16 17 18
19 20 21 22 23 24 25
26 27 28 29 30 31  

recent posts

archives

rss feedOur RSS Feed of This Blog



 


Shopping cart  Shopping cart
0 Product(s) in cart
Total $0.00
» Checkout

Login Status  Login Status

Not logged in

» Login

Join Our Newsletter!
Name
Email
subscribe
unsubscribe
   

Our Content
Planting Instructions
New Site Upgrade


more



 

     

All Content Copyright Nipa Hut Gardens and Gifts LLC unless otherwise noted. 


Exotic Orchard

eBay Feed
List of Spammers that illegally send out emails to us